Piolet d'Or 2004，看看有哪些候选

自由的风

Piolet d'Or 2004 nominees

Time has nearly come to analyse 2004. And so, like every year, it's time for the candidates of the Piolet d’or, the French oscar promoted by Montagnes Magazine. The prize, for the six most important alpine achievements of the year, will be awarded in Grenoble on 25 February.

菲兹·罗伊的东北壁线路
The first nomination goes to ‘Linea di Eleganza’, the new route on the NE Face of Fitz Roy, climbed in February by the Italians Elio Orlandi, Luca Fava and Horacio Codo.

斯洛文尼亚疯子胡马与同伴Ales Kozelj的阿空加瓜南壁
The second nomination remains on South American soil and goes to 'Johan's route', first climbed by the Slovenians Thomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj on the grandiose, and dangerous, South Face of Aconcagua (6960m). Climbed in December 2003, it is perhaps the timing, not the value of the route and the wall, that makes this nomination surprising.

俄国鬼子的简努北壁直上，7000米上还用吊帐Bivy
As was to be expected, the Russian team together with Alexandre Ruchkin and Dmitry Pavlenko has been nominated for its success up the towering North Face of Jannu (7710m). The direct line pinned the 11 mountaineers down for 50 days in base camp before the final rush, a porta-ledge bivvy above 7000m, to reach the summit.

美国鬼子在阿拉斯加“莫斯的牙”东壁
Another line that figures in this prestigious top six is 'Arctic Rage', by the Americans Kevin Mahoney and Ben Gilmore. The two climbed the East Face of Alaska's Moose’s Tooth via Jim Bridwell and Mugs Stump's 1981 "Dance of the Woo-Li Masters, before continuing along an in dependant line. Worth highlighting, other than the fast and light approach, is the hostile and inhospitable terrain in which the two attempted, twice, to climb the wall. It was finally climbed in a three day. pure alpine-style push.

法国J.C.拉法耶无氧希夏邦玛南壁
The fifth nomination goes to Jean Christophe Lafaille and his recent solitary and oxygenless ascent of the South Face of Shisha Pangma (8046m). The Frenchman reached the summit on December 13 after having climbed a brief independent line: his variation connects the direct couloir, climbed by Britons Victor Sanders and Andy Parkin and then by Simone Moro and a Polish team in 2003, to the British route climbed by Scott, MacIntyre, Baxter and Jones. This is undoubtedly a nice ascent even if, as many have already pointed out, his success came 10 days prior to the official start of winter and cannot therefore be considered a true winter ascent of one of the 14 highest peaks.

美国鬼子史蒂夫·豪斯的K7西南壁；豪斯太酷了，从大本营上升加下降花了41小时爬了2700米爬到6934米的顶峰，有5.10的攀岩，80度的冰壁，M6+的混合，A2的Aid！！一个人。这就是攀登能力！
Last but certainly not least is the fast, solitary ascent along the SW Face of K7 by Steve House. The American needed just 41 hours from basecamp to the 6934m summit and back for the second ascent of the mountain. The 2700m line encounters difficulties of 5.10, ice 80°, M6+, A2. A fantastic, rapid ascent!

It's common knowledge that comparisons are never easy, and this is particularly the case in mountaineering. It's almost always impossible to form a single, unanimous opinion, but the Piolet d'Or certainly acts as a good indicator in defining the parameters with which cutting-edge ascents can be judged. Apart from Lafaille's Shisha Pangma ascent, no other +8000m peak is in the list. And apart from the Russian expedition on Jannu, all other are small, lightweight teams. And all are new routes, or at least in part follow independent lines. Then again, for quite some time now the frontiers of mountaineering have been pushed alpine style in remote places.

2月25日揭晓
On 25 February we'll know just that bit more.

菲兹·罗伊东北壁线路


线路级别与描述等
NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004

1. FITZ ROY 3440m – NE Face
Linea di Eleganza – February 2004
VI, 6c/A3, M7 - 1450m.
8 days and 6 bivvies
Elio Orlandi - Luca Fava - Horacio Codo

2. ACONCAGUA 6960m - South Face
Johan's route - December 2003
6b/A2, ice 100°, M6 - 2500m
6 days on the face – alpine style
Thomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj

3. JANNU 7710m - North Face
Russian Direct line – April/May 2004.
6b/A3+, M6 - 2100m.
50 days at Base Camp.
11 mountaineers, Alexander Odintsov expedition leader

4. MOOSE’S TOOTH 3150m - East Face
Arctic Rage – attempt 22/23 March then 31 March to 3 April 2004
VI, A2, ice 6+ - 1500m
1st attempt: 2 days. 2nd attempt and success: 3 days – alpine style.
Kevin Mahoney - Ben Gilmore

5. SHISHAPANGMA 8046m – South Face
Voi Lafaille and Scott-MacIntyre-Baxter-Jones – 14 November to 13 December 2004.
VII, ice 75° - 1300m + 1000m soit 2300m.
5 days for summit push, 2 nights above 7100m.
Jean Christophe Lafaille, solo, without oxygen.

6. K7 6.934m – SW Face
New route - 24/25 July 2004
Second ascent
5.10, ice 80°, M6+, A2
41 hours from Base Camp to summit and back
Steve House solo.

自由的风

简努北壁路线 7710m

                       
        Success on Jannu! A jubilant call from expedition leader Alexander Odintsov to www.mountain.ru says it all: Alexandre Ruchkin and Dmitry Pavlenko have finally summited Jannu via the formidable North Face. The duo had attempted a first summit bid early yesterday morning, but strong winds had forced them back to their portaledge at 7400m. Weather conditions permitting, Sergey Borisov and Gennadi Kirievsky will make a second summit bid tomorrow.

The nine-man Russisan expedition started work at the start of April and slowly but surely established four camps up the steep Himalayan bigwall (camp I 5600m, camp II 6700m, camp III 7000m and a portaledge at 7400m). They fixed ropes throughout the climb, battling against constant snowfall, high winds and the sheer verticality of the face. Team member Mikhai Mikhaylov explained that above 7000m: "there is no meter where you can relax: it's either a vertical or hanging wall".

This is Odintsov's second expedition to the north Face of Jannu. In October 2003 his team set an impressive highpoint of 7200m before retreating due to avalanche danger.

Jannu North Face Expedition Spring 2004
Alexandre Odintsov, S-Peterburg - leader
Alexandre Ruchkin, S-Peterburg - climber
Michail Pershin, S-Peterburg/Ekaterinburg - climber
Nikolay Totmyanin, S-Peterburg - climber
Dmitry Pavlenko, Moscow/Ekaterinburg - climber
Alexey Bolotov, Ekaterinburg - climber
Sergey Borisov, Ekaterinburg - climber
Gennadi Kirievsky, Ekaterinburg - climber
Mikhail Mikhaylov, Bishkek - camera-man

自由的风

胡马和他的兄弟的阿空加瓜南壁


Aconcagua south face: new route for Humar and Kozelj

At the end of December 2003 the Slovenians Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed the south face of Aconcagua (6930m) via a new route, dedicated to Janez Jeglic. As many may well remember, Jeglic died tragically on Nuptse in 1997 while climbing with Humar.

"Mobitel's Swallow - Johan's route" was climbed in alpine style and encounters difficulties up to VI+ (A2) (IV - V+) with some overhanging ice and mixed sections graded M6. Humar and Kozelj left BC on 16 December and, 5 bivouacs and 2500m later, reached the summit on 22 December at 15.00. A rapid descent down the north face brought them to Plaza del Mulas at 20.30.

The south face of Aconcagua is considered to be one of the hardest, most complex and interesting walls on the American continent: a 2500m high, 5 km wide granite and ice wall, first breached in 1954 by a French expedition led by René Ferlet.

Aconcagua 6930m
South Face
Mobitel's Swallow - Johan's Route
FA: Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj (12/2003)
Length: 2500 m
Grade: VI+(A2) (IV - V+)
90° - 100° (60°- 70°)
M5 - M6

自由的风

仨意大利鬼子的菲兹·罗伊东北壁



线路描述
LINEA DI ELEGANZA
NE Face Chaltèn - Fitz Roy (3441m), Patagonia, Argentina
7 February 2004 - Elio Orlandi - Horacio Codò - Luca Fava
Length: 1350m circa + 100m 60° snow ramp at the base (1450 m).
Grade: ED+ 6c/A3 90°/M7 (the route was climbed in difficult conditions with snow and ice lining the cracks. We believe the route can be climbed free in good conditions.



Fitz Roy new route by Orlandi, Codò and Fava

On 7 February 2004 the Italians Elio Orlandi and Luca Fava, and the Argentine Horacio Codò reached the summit of Chalten - Fitz Roy after 7 days of effort via a new, direct line up the stunning Northeast Face. Their "Linea di Eleganza" is graded ED+ 6c/A3 90°/M7, and shares a couple of finishing pitches with nearby El Corazòn.

The trio spent 8 days at the end of January and the beginning of February climbing the long series of granite cracks and slabs, to reach the 3441m high summit.Preparations for the route though had begun three years previously, when Orlandi, in the company of Fabio Leoni and then Rolando Larcher, started to ascend a line in-between “El Corazon” and the “Slovenian Route.” Typical Patagonian weather had put an end to these early efforts, and for much of December 2003 it looked as if they would return home , once again, empty handed. Despite near winter conditions they managed to fix 15 pitches to a first bivouac, dubbed "Bivachotel Patagonius". They came across numerous in-situ pegs and bolts, probably belonging to the 1981 Japanese expedition which had hoped to traverse right to the large central corner, climbed direct in 1983 by the Slovenians.


Patagonia, Chaltèn - Fitz Roy, Linea di eleganza, Elio Orlandi


At the end of January the weather suddenly turned and, on 1 February, the mountaineers ascended the fixed ropes to the first bivouac. They continued their “Todo o Nada" ascent throughout a rare 7 day spell of high pressure and, after 6 bivouacs, finally reached the summit. Conditions on the wall had been somewhat complicated, initially due to the snow on the lower section, and then due to seepage and falling rocks on the upper section. Whilst recuperating fixed ropes from the summit a dislodged stone hit Orlandi's hand, rendering the descent somewhat harder than expected.


Editor’s note: Orlandi refers to Fitz Roy as Chaltèn. This is the original name given to the mountain by the aboriginal Tehuelche population. Chaltèn means 'mountain that sends out smoke', and the Tehuelche believed the mountain was an active volcano, probably because of perennial summit clouds. The mountain now takes after Captain Robert Fitz-Roy, the English navigator who discovered much of Patagonia with the small sailing ship, the Beagle and captained Charles Darwin on his famous ‘origin of the species’ discoveries.


photos: three views of Linea di Eleganze by Elio Orlandi

自由的风

K7


K6与K7




K7 from camp at Ursid


以下是Charakusa/K7与Nanga Parbat南迦·帕巴探险攀登的照片与文字
豪斯在K7 Solo
July 24th-25th: House climbs new route on K-7(6,934m) solo by the southwest face. His 2,700 meter route is graded 5.10, 80 degree ice, M6+, A2. He accomplished it in 41.75 hours round trip from basecamp. This was the 2nd ascent of the peak
７月２４～２５日，豪斯Ｓｏｌｏ　Ｋ７西南壁，路线长２７００米，５．１０／８０度冰壁／Ｍ６＋／Ａ２。４１小时４５分钟从大本营出发登顶回到大本营。此峰的次登。
下图：Ｋ７的第二个Bivy。远处是乔戈里萨峰。Second bivouac on K7, Chogolisha in far distance


下图：Jeff Hollenbaugh and Bruce Miller on Kapura


下图：BC


"Tasty Talking" is 5.10+, 500 meters.与"No More Tasty Talk", 5.10+, 1000m.
在Nasser Brakk风东南脊
下图：Tasty Talking


下图：Steve House on "No Tasty Talking"


看下面的文章，他们这个队实在太强了。一次远征，做了很多开创性的Ｎｅｗ　Ｂｅｅ攀登。崇拜死他们了！

Charakusa/K7 and Nanga Parbat debrief

Sep 8, 2004 11: 30 EST
They were among the few Americans who went to Pakistan this troubled summer.

Their target: Charakusa/K7/Nanga multi header.

They came back with stunning pictures and left behind new routes and a first ascent.

Steve House (leader, USA), Marko Prezelj (Slovenia), Steve Swenson, Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller, and Jeff Hollenbaugh (all other members were Americans) travelled to the Charakusa valley in the end of June. The Charakusa is the next major valley east of (and parallel to) the famous Baltoro glacier valley.

Here is a summary of their climbs:

Nasser Brakk, Tasty Talking (image 4 & 5)

June 28th: Chabot and Swenson climbed the British route on Nasser Brakk (18,000ft) to acclimatize and Hollenbaugh and Miller attempted new route on Nasser Brakk via SW ridge.

June 29th: House and Prezelj followed Chabot and Swenson on the British route on Nasser, and excellent outing.

June 30th: House, Prezelj, and Swenson climb new route on SE ridge of Nasser Brakk. "Tasty Talking" is 5.10+, 500 meters. A couple of days later Miller and Prezelj added more pitches to this route by doing a start on the buttress right from the glacier, which they called "No More Tasty Talk", 5.10+, 1000m. (Images 4 and 5).

Kapura first ascent (image 2)

July 1st: Hollenbaugh and Miller climb south buttress on an un-named rock spire immediately down valley from Nasser Brakk.

July 2nd-6th: Chabot, House and Swenson do first ascent of Kapura Peak (6,554m) reaching summit via the west face and west ridge on July 4th (1700m, M4). Miller and Prezelj reach the summit by the same route on July 5th.

July 14th: Miller and Prezelj do first ascent of route on an un-named rock tower below and south of K-7

K7 new route, solo, Japanese repeat in Alpine style, image 1

July 24th-25th: House climbs new route on K-7(6,934m) solo by the southwest face. His 2,700 meter route is graded 5.10, 80 degree ice, M6+, A2. He accomplished it in 41.75 hours round trip from basecamp. This was the 2nd ascent of the peak

July 24-28: Chabot and Miller repeat original Japanese route on K7 to do the 3rd ascent of the peak. The Japanese climbed this route in 1983 with 450 bolts, plus pitons and 6,500 meters of fixed rope. Chabot and Miller climbed alpine style, making the summit late on the fourth day, and descending via House's route where they found some of his rappel anchors.

K7-West and Nanga Parbat

July 24-28: Hollenbaugh, Prezelj and Swenson attempt the NW ridge of unclimbed K7-West (circa 6,600m) but turn around 300 meters from the top because of dangerous snow conditions where they triggered a small slab avalanche which swept Swenson's pack 1,000 meters back down the face..

August 1-9th: Expedition returned to Skardu and Hollenbaugh and Prezelj returned home. House, Chabot, Miller and Swenson rested in Skardu then travelled to Nanga Parbat (8,125m) basecamp below the Rupal (south) face.

August 12-18: Chabot and Swenson climb the Mezino Ridge on Nanga Parbat to where the ridge ends at the Mezino col and intersects the Schell route on Nanga Parbat at 7,300m. Chabot and Swenson then descend the Schell route without going to the summit of Nanga Parbat due to fatigue and the weather turning bad. Poor conditions on the Schell route result in a decision not to go back up that route to finish going to the summit later.

August 13-17th: House and Miller attempted a bold new route on the Rupal main face between the Messner route and the Polish route. They climbed ice to 90 degrees and mixed pitches rated up to M7. Most of the terrain they soloed, the only way to make time on the 4,000 meter high face. They belayed a total of just 9 pitches. On the morning of the forth day they reached 7,500 meters before health problems forced them to descend and traverse down to the Messner route which they followed back to the base of the huge face on their fifth day.

August 22nd : Chabot, Miller and Swenson leave basecamp for home. House remains to attempt the Rupal face again solo.

August 27th: House leave base camp with a lung infection after initiating a solo attempt on the Rupal Face that does not reach the previous high point.

1: Second bivouac on K7, Chogolisha in far distance
2: Jeff Hollenbaugh and Bruce Miller on Kapura
3: BC
4. Tasty Talking
5. Steve House on "No Tasty Talking"

Debreif report courtesy of the expedition, images courtesy of Marko Prezelj.


http://www.k2climb.net/story/CharakusaK7andNangaParbatdebriefSep82004.shtml
http://mark.amebis.si/en/
http://mark.amebis.si/fotografija/gal_pregled.asp?jezik=en&podkat=28

自由的风

几个有意思的网站：

http://blankonthemap.free.fr/7_indexg/indexg2.htm
喀喇昆仑山区山峰表

http://www.jimmychinphotography.com/
金国威（听起来像是华裔人），摄影师，和Conrad一起去K7，网站不错

自由的风

Steve House on the upper part of "No Tasty Talking" climb
史蒂夫·豪斯在"No Tasty Talking"上部攀登


Steve House and Steve Swenson on the summit of Nasser Brakk
豪斯与斯文森在Nasser Brakk那瑟·布拉克峰顶：我就常常想，你怎么可能拒绝这样的诱惑？！


K7 - west, middle and main summit from Schaischo
从Schaischo看Ｋ７西、中、主峰


Ｋ７西、中、主峰


Ｋ７主峰与西山脊


"No Tasty Talking"上部


Steve House on the Summit of Nasser Brakk
豪斯在那瑟·布拉克峰顶


Line of "Difficult Life" on first pillar of K7
K7第一柱之“困难生活”线路


那瑟·布拉克峰


Nasser Brakk with "No Tasty Talking" (red) and "British Route" (yellow)
那瑟·布拉克峰的两条线路：红－"No Tasty Talking"；黄－英国线路


我们的游乐场小部分（游乐场，有意思）


走向BC


Steve House with "D'Or" award for best alpinist of the year in Charakusa valley
原来豪斯这个大牛长这个样子，看起来傻傻的，象穆铁柱，他们在吃蛋糕。在山里那么多天，恐怕馋死蛋糕了。


沙克都的“梦之队”（真是梦之队了）

自由的风

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/article_twight-Grivel%20Ambassadors.htm

   GRIVEL NORTH AMERICA AMBASSADORS THROW DOWN

written by:  Mark Twight

It's mid-August 2004 and news reports are streaming in sporadically from overseas.

Steve House called from the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan once in late-June and again in late-July. He was there with a strong team of climbers including fellow GNA Four member Marko Prezelj. Jeff Hollenbaugh, Bruce Miller, Doug Chabot, and Steve Swenson rounded out the team. Early in the trip the whole group minus Hollenbaugh made the first ascent of Kapura Peak (6544m). The 1100-meter route went at 5.8, M5, with 90-degree ice. Later, House, Prezelj and Swenson climbed the upper southeast ridge of Nayser Brakk (5200m) yielding "Tasty Talk", 300m, III, 5.10c. Prezelj returned with Miller to climb the entire ridge, which they dubbed "No More Tasty Talk", 900m, IV, 5.10+. Then House and Hollenbaugh climbed to within one hour of the summit of Drifika (6447m) but turned back in a storm.

During a spell of much-awaited good weather House soloed a new route on K7 (6942m) making that mountain's second ascent. The 2650-meter high line is on the southwest face, independent from 4400m (BC) to where it joins the Japanese Route at 6300m. He started at 5pm and finished the lower rock section by 7:30pm, continued climbing until 10pm when he brewed up. Then moved through the night to stay warm. Snow on the upper 800m was knee to crotch deep if it was less than 60 degrees. A big gendarme right below the summit took 5 hours to bypass, with mini Tamara Traverses connected by rock and 30 feet of “genuine aid climbing, etriers and all.” Steve reached the summit at 7:45pm, turned his headlamp on at 8pm when it got dark and began “a slow measured descent.” He described the terrain up high as “significantly complex,” and hard (5.10, A2, 80-degree ice, M6+). The route took 41 hours roundtrip from base camp (4400m). In strict adherence to the modern style he carried a stove, pan and fuel but no bivy gear so he climbed in a single push. Steve got close to the summit in 19 hours of climbing last summer and spent the next ten months training for that particular objective (and what is to follow).

The first ascent of K7 was accomplished in 1984 by a large Japanese team. They fixed over 9000 feet of rope, established six fixed camps and drilled 450 bolts. During the same five-day window of good weather that Steve exploited Bruce Miller and Doug Chabot repeated the Japanese Route up the southwest ridge of K7 in 5 days roundtrip, alpine style, of course. Theirs was the third ascent of the peak. Separately, Marko Prezelj, Jeff Hollenbaugh and Steve Swenson got shut out by atrocious snow conditions on K7 West, which remains unclimbed.

As I write this the weather is good in Pakistan so it is likely that the team, sans Marko Prezelj and Jeff Hollenbaugh who both returned home, is attempting Nanga Parbat by a variety of routes. We heard via the grape vine that they got high on the Rupal Face but missed the summit - details follow.

We also received confirmation that Kelly Cordes and Josh Wharton made the first ascent of the 7500-foot high (and rather long) southwest ridge of Trango Tower on 24-28 July. The route was first attempted seriously in 1990 by Spaniards, Lazkano, Banales, Cobo and Murica who spent three weeks on the route, establishing four camps and fixing a bunch of rope to get up the 61 pitches that put them within "100 meters of the summit" according to the 1993 GHM Journal (pp 14). They graded those pitches French 6c and A2. In 2000 Miles Smart and Timmy O'Neill avoided the aid on the Spanish route and managed to reach a headwall 300 meters below the summit before storm forced them down -- an epic descent that took 17 hours and 40+ rappels (AAJ 2001 pp 357-359).

Cordes' postcard explained that the pair ran out of fuel, thus water on the second day, sucked ice and snow and ate little for the next two and a half days that it took to complete the route and descent. They climbed 20 pitches - that included the crux - above the high points of the Spanish and American teams making the total number of pitches they climbed over 80 (probably) but they "lost count due to all the simul-climbing." Cordes and Wharton rated the route 5.11 R/X A2 M6 but had not yet named it. Cordes said that they "went outrageously light."

litour

Steve House,Marko Prezelj...
看看2002年GRIVEL这帮家伙干了什么
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/article_blanchard-nuptse.htm

litour

印象里Steve House, Barry Blanchard跟写Extream Alpinism的Mark Twight都是一伙的，他们似乎热衷于a none-stop push式的疯狂阿尔卑斯是登山。当然，别以为SH只玩big wall，这个疯子也去过卓奥友，如果没记错的话是26小时bc->summit->bc来回——据说这么干只是想知道自己能不停的爬多久……
超级变态，俺超级崇拜