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发表于 2005-5-19 12:15
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先说我自己去年做的昏事：
１。第一次爬雪山，水没带够，下山时脱水。 我只带了一升水，自以为可以用体温可以把雪捂化了。结果气温太低，不行。吃雪不是个事，脱水了头痛，疲劳，人非得喝水不可。有的人爬长线，防万一，带炉子和燃料，和带多水的重量差不多。
２。没地图 没GPS 而去solo雪山， 只是天好（事先知道天气预报，赌了一把），运气好。
水够了，但是用的是 MSR Dromadery ,，吸管结冰，老得 吹气，热捂，烦。
３。这次Lessons Learned更长
• Communication, communication, communication. Speak out your mind
and let your team know your opinion, thoughts, physical and mental fitness
level.
• Read terrain very attentively. Keep an eye on clouds. Weather comes
from west on Rainier. Clouds move fast. Analyze weather and assess the
level of danger. Discuss with your partners.
• Have avalanche gear ready for the high risk days. Mammut Barryvox is
the best current model. Carbon fiber probe is better than aluminum ones.
No need to get anything longer than 235 cm. Shovel comes handy even
in a pleasant day. Digging a tent platform, a snow cave, or as a kitchen
counter.
• Use GPS to mark way points. GPS and USGS topo maps are must-have
in white-out condition.
• Ski goggles are useful in bad weather.
• Don’t take too much or too little gear. Gear sorting is very important.
Take it seriously and do it together as a team. It turns out some of us
take too much stu up. Extra food but not adequate fuel. Too much
extra gear. It takes practice to determine how much gear is adequate for
a certain route.
• Koflach are so comfortable.
• Always wear antibott with crampons.
• Chose camp site wisely. Read the terrain to figure it out whether is a
good site. Signs such as: Any icy spot? Snow thickness, shape, texture.
Sun, rock, wind exposure? Under potential rock, ice fall, avalanche path?
Vestibule is great in bad weather. It is well worth the weight. Glowing
cords are nice little thing.
• Public shelter is more convenient in the price of sacrificing privacy. Usually
the last person goes to bed at 2200 hr and the first person gets up at 2400
hr. Sleep close to the door if you don’t like to inhale the fuel fume. Sleep
on lower bunker to avoid condensation dribbling down from the roof. Ear
plugs are necessity, for warding o snore and storm.
• Snow cave is great in bad weather. It is really a good shelter, tranquil and
serene.
• Try new toys at home, skies, snow shoes, etc. Don’t let the big climb be
your test ground. Break in new boots.
• Hitch the pack with a sling (or a daisy chain) and secure it to your harness
so you won’t lose it on steep terrain. Do the same to your ice axe.
• Aluminum spike on ice axe’s shaft is a stupid design. When the spike
wears out, the axe becomes useless on ice. Grivel Air Tech Racing is
exactly this way. The aluminum spike of my AT Racing is worn out but
the shaft is still fine. It is important for the mountaineering axe to have
a comfortable grip. Grivel Air Tech Evolution has a slightly bent T-rated
shaft and comforable grip. Many T-rated, more aggressive axes (tools) do
not have comfortable grip. Such as Grivel Light Wing or CM Aztar. Be
aware.
• Nalgene bottle parka is indispensable. The combination of bottle and
parka is lighter than a thermos.
• Get a whisperlite MSR stove. Wind screen and heat reflector save fuel!
Whipserlite is robust enough in the tough environment yet quiet enough
to allow a civilized conversation while cooking. MSR is the best choice
in north America because every store carries it so you won’t have any
trouble to find spare parts. Fuel for winter condition 6-8 oz/day/person.
Test stove at home. Test all gears at home, for heaven sake. Titanium
cook ware is much lighter. It is well worth the money.
• Mountain House freeze-dried food is tasty. Backpack Pantry is not. Get
some Thai rice noodles.
• Good vegetable up high: raw garlic (good for the heart, thins the blood),
dried mint, cilantro, parsley, roasted Korean style sea weed. |
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狗仔卡
发表于 2005-5-18 21:46
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发表于 2005-5-18 23:12
发表于 2005-5-20 13:52