《一个关于开线者的玩笑？》片段【转载】

bince

这是王2博客上有关开线、出书、商业、沟通、、、乃至风格、理想的一堆絮絮叨叨的文字。王2自己有评论云：

第一次碰上这样的事，我很纠结。以我来看，一位从来没有为昆明攀岩付出过哪怕一分钱，一滴汗的美国朋友却想靠昆明的攀岩路线信息挣钱？是我对他邮件内容的个人曲解，还是自己太狭隘？尽量想保持昆明攀岩的纯粹风格，尽量低调，不好吗？我不是垄断者，也从未想垄断，我只是一个十年如一日始终关心昆明攀岩的本地狗。

以下是比较有趣的一段，上下文请看原文

七 为了更好的解决分歧，也对自己英文书面表达能力低下会引起歧义的担忧，我拜托一位美国朋友给adam再写了一封邮件
Hannah Waight  发送至 adam 3月15日
Dear Adam,

My name is Hannah Waight.  I am a friend of Wang Zhi Ming’s and a
member of the Redpoint Climbing Club in Kunming.  Wang Er asked me to
write this message to you in order to clear up a few points that may
have been left unclear in your correspondence.

Firstly, you have to understand the history of climbing in Kunming.
Unlike Yangshuo and many other areas in Asia, climbing in Kunming was
not started by western foreigners.  Climbing in Kunming began in 1999
by the initiative of Wang Er and his mentor Mr. Huang, another Chinese
national who had learned to climb in Yangshuo.  They began bolting
first at the Stone Forest and then relocated to the Western Hills.  In
2002 Bob Mosely, an American climber who had relocated to Kunming for
work, joined with Wang Er and the other Kunming climbers to continue
the development of the climbing.  Along with their route development,
these founders of climbing in Yunnan worked to encourage interest in
climbing among other interested parties in Kunming and throughout
China at large.  The Redpoint Club was founded as both a training
ground and a safe place to introduce beginners to our sport.

Over the past 10+ years Wang Er and the other members of the Redpoint
Club have spent countless hours and yuan on route development.  All
together they have bolted over 200 routes.  Most of the hardware for
these routes has come out of the pockets of Wang Er, Bob, Lao Xiang
and a few other members of the Redpoint Club.  During this time they
have also had to fight battles with the local government, eventually
losing the battle of climbing in Kunming and having to relocate all
climbing to nearby Fumin and Tuanjie Counties, thereby losing all the
hard work put in at Xi Shan.  The club has also lost prominent members
from mountaineering accidents and other tragedies in the past decade.
The guidebook in print now was partly made to memorialize these
individuals.

Due to the independent nature of climbing in Kunming and the many
years of effort on part of the local climbers here, the Redpoint Club
has a very different perspective on climbing in Yunnan and how and
when to advertise our efforts.  We really don’t want a “Yangshuo Two”
with tens of different guiding companies competing for business and
scores of climber tourists crowding every crag.

We are also not in climbing to make money – the money from the
guidebook sales and the memberships all goes to the bolting fund and
maintenance of the climbing wall.  It’s not to say we don’t want more
people, especially westerners, to come to Kunming and climb – myself
and the other foreign climbers in Kunming are a perfect example of
this.   My first weekend in Kunming Wang Er took me climbing to Fumin
without any questions asked.   The development of climbing and the
increase in foreign and Chinese visitors to our crags should be a
natural thing, however – when more people come we will be happy to
show them around but we will not go out of our way to turn Kunming
into another stop on the climber vacation circuit.

I must add that we at the Redpoint Club do really appreciate what you
have done in Dali- one person equipping 50 routes with very little
assistance is no mean feat.  With all due respect, however, it is not
comparable (at least at this stage) to what has gone on in Kunming.
As such it would not be appropriate for you to write a guidebook
including Kunming climbing without our collaboration.  It would be a
disrespect to all the effort that has been spent here as well as a
dishonor to unique nature of the Kunming climbing community – a
community that began independently of western efforts.  Wang Er has
stated you are more than welcome to write a guidebook concerning
Northern Yunnan, but we cannot permit you to write this new Yunnan
guidebook without our collaboration.

If, on the other hand, you would be interested in working with us
together to publish a guidebook of all of Yunnan, that is another
matter to be discussed.  We are in the midst of re-writing our Kunming
guidebook and would appreciate your input on the climbing in the Dali
area.   We will not be publishing this guidebook until next year
because we are the midst of a bolting push.  We are hoping to have a
hundred new routes for this guidebook before publication.  In this
way, visitors to Kunming will have more routes to choose from.

On a final note, we are fully aware that you could not listen to us
and publish your own Yunnan guidebook without our permission.  I guess
that you may have written part if not all of the guidebook already.
To include Kunming climbing in your guidebook would be to do so
without our permission.  If you went through with your plans, this
action would have consequences – it would severely damage your
relationship with the Kunming climbers as well as with other climbing
organizations in China at large.  If you needed any assistance in the
future with bolting, dealing with government organizations, trying to
coordinate between different climbing organizations in China, etc your
future efforts would be severely hampered.  This is not a threat,
simply a statement of fact.   It would also be difficult on our end,
as it would interfere with the development of climbing in Yunnan, as
well as our efforts to preserve the nature of our climbing community
and the memorial of the labors of present and deceased members of the
club.

So please, do what is best for the entire climbing community in
Yunnan, not just for Dali climbing.

Please email me if you have any further questions and/or my writing is
not clear.

Sincerely,
Hannah Waight
Wang Zhi Ming

小毛驴0024

Adam现在可能比较穷。所以想拿这个补贴家用？至少他发现这里面有商业机会。
老君山恐怕爬不了，裂缝少，都是包子面。india creek风化严重：所以风化掉了皮，露出的比较结实，而且那里裂缝多。
商业化不是恶魔。但是得防着阳朔那种恶心的局面。不过国内这种环境，如果经济收益一出来苗头，苍蝇肯定就来了。
现在昆明的旅游风气分散、游客也少，至少到攀岩地区的人没那么多，所以没有当地农民或其他想挣钱的人来。带人去爬挣点钱的，也少吧？
这个Adam想学Paul那种做法？Paul因为在阳朔开了不少线，所以可能也没人说什么。
但得有一种考虑和准备，无论是坚持还是变通——如果昆明的线路越来多、名气越来响亮，像Adam带人要去商业爬、而且这样的人多了的话？那要怎么预备、应对和处理？

冬冬

亲切友好氛围中恳谈的内容和结论到底是什么呢？

w2

内容基本是把所有邮件的内容重复了一遍，结论是搁置了一些分歧，达成了一定的共识，一年以后再说……。
当然以我对adam的了解，我私人觉得合作的希望渺茫。不是不愿意，而是彼此的基准点相差略远。
对于未来可能面对的攀岩商业化的问题，我的原则是我挣不了的钱，也不挡别人财路，但君子爱财必须取之有道。阳朔之所以出现现在的局面，个人以为是缺乏良性的游戏规则，导致只能玩丛林里那套。
王大手很快啊……，最近不知为何，对殖民主义这个词很感兴趣。