Yuji新闻，可能的5.15

自由的风

Yuji新闻，可能的5.15
CLIMBING.COM - NEWS

Yuji opens possible 5.15, onsights Uncertainty Principle

By Dougald MacDonald


Rumors of a possible 5.15 by Japanese star Yuji Hirayama have swirled around the internet in recent days. Here are the facts from Hirayama himself.

Hirayama finished his new route at Futagoyama, three hours from Tokyo, on March 19, after 14 days of work. Called Flat Mountain (the English translation of Hirayama), the limestone route is 33 meters long; Hirayama bolted it 14 years ago but didn’t put much time into the climb until this winter. The first 23 meters are slightly overhanging 5.12c. After a poor rest, the crux is an 11-move V11/V12 boulder problem with very technical footwork, followed by a 10-move V8 boulder problem. Hirayama graded Flat Mountain 5.14d/5.15a.

Now in Yosemite, Hirayama has demonstrated again why he is considered one of the world’s great all-around rock climbers. This week he onsighted both Uncertainty Principle (5.13a, 13 pitches) and Psychedelic Wall (5.12c, 11 pitches) on Sentinel Rock.
本贴由自由的风于2003年9月27日12:08:40在〖岩与酒〗发表.