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FIRST ASCENTS 7 NEW ROUTES 2000
ASIA
BORNEO (Sabah - Kinabalu) Lows Gully Area 1st Ascent - E Wall (“The Crucible”, 800m, E4, A3+) (Apr)
Jerry Gore, Steve Long, Louise Thomas, Mike Turner (Britain)
Jerry Gore, Tulip Cottage, Windsoredge Lane, Nailsworth, Stroud, Gloucester, GJ6 0NP, UK, SGIM.
(Sabah - Kinabalu) Lows Gully Area 1st Ascent (“La Alquimista”, 800m, 6b A3) (Apr)
Carles Albesa, Xavier Fernández, Pep Soldevila, Xavier Vilella (Spain)
AAJ 75, Desnivel 164
CHINA (Sichuan - Siguniang) Wong Shan (5200) 1st Ascent - SW Face (“Marco Polo”, 850m, 6c) (29 Sep)
Gianluca Bellin, Diego Stefani (Italy)
HMS 229
意大利人2000年在四姑娘山登顶的“王山”。好像我猜错了，不是那个叫paolo cavagnetto的家伙，是其他人。
XINJIANG Muztagh Ata (7546) New Route - W Face (16 Jul)
Walter Keller, Dan Mazur, Jon Otto (USA)
HMS 222
慕士塔格东壁线路，有曾山的那次攀登
(W Kun Lun) Qong Muztagh (6962) 1st Ascent - N Ridge (15 Aug)
Hiroaki Kino, Eiho Otani, Yasushi Tanahashi (Japan)
Japanese Alpine News 1, HMS 229
(W Kun Lun) Pt 6540 1st Ascent (13 Aug)
Seitaro Kamei, Kyuzo Kawai, Kiyoshi Nakamura, Shojiro Tanaka (Japan)
Japanese Alpine News 1, HMS 229
Jun Nakamura, 20-1 Kitazono-Cho, Shimogamo Sakyo-Ku, Kyoto, 606-0831, Japan.
E-mail: jun-nak@mbox.Kyoto-inet.or.jp
(Kashgar Range) Kezi-Sel (6590) 1st Ascent - E Side, descent W Side (Jul)
Andre Lebeder, Ilia Geurov, Boris Malakhov, Piotr Rykalov, Otto Chkhetiani (Russia)
AAJ 75 (Otto Chkhetiani)
(Kashgar Range) Chakragil (6708) New Route? - W Ridge (May?)
Mark Newcomb (USA)
AAJ 75 (Mark Newcomb)
(Karatagh) Shipton’s Arch (nr) 1st Ascent - W Arm from N (5.6) (May)
Nancy Feagin, Sam Lightner, Mark Newcomb (USA)
AAJ 75(Mark Newcomb)
CHINA-TIBET Xixa Bangma W Summit (7968) New Route - SW Face (“Nyong Mong”, Mixed, 80m L of Loretan/Kurtyka route) (1 Nov)
Elio Callado, Eduard Sanchez (Spain)
Eduard Sanchez 34-977-878204, HMS 229
(SW of Lhasa) Noijin Kangsang (7191) New Route - E Ridge
(9 Aug)
Tadakiyo Sakahara (Japan)
HMS 229
(SE of Lhasa) Zhemazhenyang (6480) 1st Ascent (25 Aug)
Maisha Kangri (5993) 1st Ascent (26 Aug)
Ayumi Nozawai, Yasuo Ota (Japan)
Kinichi Yamamori (Himalayan Association of Japan), HMS 229, AAJ 75
NEPAL Jongsang South Peak (7350) 1st Ascent - S Face (“Touch of Silence”, 1200m, VI/4) (6 Nov)
Urban Azman, Andrej Markovic (Slovenia)
AAJ 75, Andrej Stremfelj, Cirilova 5, Kranj 4000, Slovenia.
E-mail: andrej.stremfelj@guest.arnes.sl
(Janak Himal) Danga II (6194) 1st Ascent - SW Ridge (4 May)
Chris Bonington, Daniel Bonington, Gerald Bonington, James Bonington (Britain) Furtanjee Sherpa
Chris Bonington. E-mail: chris@bonington.com.
HMS 218, AAJ 75
(Khumbu) Pt 6571 1st Recorded Ascent - W Face (24 Pitches, ice runnels) (Apr)
Supy Bullard, Peter Carse (USA)
HMS 231, AAJ 75
Mera Peak West (c 6200) Probable New Route - N W Pillar (1200m, VII-, 70o) (Oct)
Michal Brunner, Tomas Rinn, Jiri Svejda (Czech Republic)
HMS 231, AAJ 75
(Khumbu Himal) Kongde Ri (6187) New Route - SW Pillar (“Everybody’s Smoking Marihuana”, 1500m, TD, 5+, 70o ice) (27 Oct)
Jan Doubdlebsky, Radek Lienerth (Czech Republic)
Kongde Ri (6187) New Route W Face to Normal Route (“Ramri Kati”, 2000m, TD+, M5+, one pitch 90o ice) (30 Oct)
Roman Kasparek, Vojtech Dvorak (Czech Republic)
Radek Lienerth, Volfova 10, Brno, 61200, Czech Republic.
E-mail: zoban.cl@post.cz
(Khumbu Himal) Ama Dablam (6812) New Route - NE Spur to N Ridge (4 May)
Warren Burton, Dave Crofts, Bryan Moore, Aaron Halstead, Kate West (New Zealand)
Dave Crofts, 9 Prime Road, Grey Lynn, Auckland, New Zealand. E-mail: dave.crofts@aut.ac.nz, HMS 218, AAJ 75, Hawley 00.
Kangtega (6779) New Route - N Face to NW Ridge (not to summit) (1220m, ED+, 5c/6a, A2/A3, M6, 80) (20-28 May)
Valery Babanov (Russia)
Valeri Babanov, Pr Kulture 11-15, Omsk 644029, Russia
AAJ 75 (Article), SGIM
(Ganesh Group) Ganesh IV (6908) 1st Ascent (23 May)
Osamu Tanabe, Yasuhiro Hanatani (Japan)
Hideki Yoshida, 3-1-1 Tenjincho, Kiryu, Gumma 376-0052, Japan, Hawley 00, HMS 219
(West Nepal) Nalankar N Peak (6062) 1st Ascent - N Ridge (6 Jul)
Takehiko Yanagihara (Japan) Ang Phurba Sherpa
Nalankar S Peak (6024) 1st Ascent - E Face and N Ridge simultaneously (7 Jul)
(E Face) Tamotsu Ohnishi, Takehiko Yanagihara (Japan) Chuldim Nuru Sherpa, Kencha Dawa Sherpa
(N Ridge) Koji Mizutani, Noriko Mizutani, Isamu Fujimoro, Mitsuko Fujimoro, Nobuo Adayamo (Japan), Ang Phurba Sherpa, Ang Chuldim Sherpa, Chuldim Dawa Sherpa
Changdi (6125) 1st Ascent - W Face (26 Jun)
Tamotsu Ohnishi, Koji Mizutani, Nobuo Akayamo,
Takehiko Yanagihara, Chuldim Nuru Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa
Tamotsu Ohnishi, 2-27-3 Nishi Yamadai, Osaka Sayama, Osaka 589-0022, Japan, Hawley 00, HMS 226
INDIA (Kumaon) Abi Gamin (7335) New Route - NW Ridge (27 Aug)
Ku Eun-so, Kim Hyun-jung, Jun Sao-hwo (Korea)
Leader Kim Nam-il (Korean Alpine Federation, Seoul)
HMS 224, HCN/L 54
(Kumaon) Rataban (6166) New Route - S Ridge (60o snow, mixed) (20 Aug)
Kavshik Bhattacharya (leader), Rakal Ghosh, Soneh Lahiri, Amit Patia, Binod Kumar Ram, ‘3 HA porters’ (India)
HMS 224, HC/NL 54
(Kumaon) Nilkanth (6596) 1st Ascent - W Ridge (D/TD-, VI, Scottish II/III) (1 Jun)
John Leedale, Martin Moran, Andy Nisbet, Jonathan Preston (Britain), Caspar Venter (South Africa)
Martin Moran, Park Cottage, Achintree, Strathcarron, Ross-shire, IV54 8YX, Scotland.
E-mail: martin.moran@btinternet.com, HMS 224, HC/NL 54
(Kumaon-Panpatia Glacier) “Lakshmi’s Peak” (5919) 1st Ascent (PD+/AD-) (25 May)
Jonathan Preston, Robert Bennie, Steve Brown, Hardu Edwards, Deane Foster, Paul Josse, James MacKenzie, Simon Needham (Britain)
Martin Moran, Park Cottage, Achintree, Strathcarron, Ross-shire, IV54 8YX, Scotland.
E-mail: martin.moran@btinternet.com, HMS 224
(Kumaon-Panpatia Gl.) “Ravindra’s Peak” (5447) S Top - 1st Ascent (AD-, 300m) (16 May)
Martin Moran, Eddie Gillespie, John Leedale, John Venter (Britain)
Martin Moran, Park Cottage, Achintree, Strathcarron, Ross-shire, IV54 8YX, Scotland.
E-mail: martin.moran@btinternet.com, HMS 224
(Kumaon - Panch Chuli) Pt 5242, 1st Ascent (22 May)
Predeep Kumar Kar, Moloy Kanti Harder, Suvomoy Majumdar, Awp Sala (India)
HMS 225, HCN/L 54
(Kumaon) Bhupa Dhura (6210) 1st Ascent - S Ridge (27 Sep)
Loveraj Dharmashktu, Bolwant Sing Kapkati, Ramesh (India)
IMF N/L 54, HMS 225, AAJ 75
(Garhwal) Shivling (6543) New Route - Direct N Pillar (“Shiva’s Line”, VII, A4, mixed) (31 May)
Thomas Huber (Germany), Iwan Wolf (Switzerland)
HMS 224, HCN/L 54, AAJ 75 (Article)
(Garhwal) Arwa Spires (6193) 1st Ascent - E Summit, E Ridge (TD, VI, Scottish 5, mixed) (11 and 16 Oct)
Andy Benson, Pete Benson (11 Oct) (Britain)
Kenton Cool, Ian Parnell, Al Powell (16 Oct) (Britain)
Ian Parnell, 71 Sheldon Road, Sheffield, S7 1EU, UK.
E-mail: ianparnell@blueyonder.co.uk.
HMS 224, HCN/L 54, AJ 106 (Article)
(Lahul - Baralacha) Unnamed (6111) 1st Ascent - S Ridge (nr)
Sanjay Kumar Barman, Jayanta Kumar Dutta, Jyatrimoy Dutta, Prasant Mordal, Subir Mondal (India)
HMA 225, HCN/L 54, AJ 75
(Lahul - Chandra Tal) Pt 6290, 1st Ascent - E Ridge (No rope necessary) (5 Aug)
Graham Boswell and 8 others (Britain)
HMS 225, HCN/L 54, AAJ 75
(Lahul - Kunzum) “Berrills Peak” (6222) New Route - NE Ridge (7 Aug)
Dawa Kangri (6140) 1st Ascent - N Face (5 Aug)
Takato Kato and six mature Japanese
Leader: Takato Kato
HCN/L 54, AAJ 75 (HMS account seems wrong)
(Spiti) Kangla Tarbo 1 (6315) 1st Ascent - S Face (9 Sep)
Brian Geraghty, Colm Owens, Hugh Reynolds (Ireland)
Paddy O’Leary, Ballinabarney, Redcross, Co Wicklow, Ireland. Tel: 0404-41711, E-mail: patleary@gofree.indigo.ie, HCN/L 54, HMS 225, AAJ 75
(Zanskar - Markha Valley) Dzo Jongpo (6150) New Route - E Face (26 Aug)
Wilhelm George and 8 others (Germany)
HMS 225, HCN/L 54
(East Karakoram - Central Rimo) Migpa (5935) 1st Ascent - SE Ridge (23 Aug)
Huzefa Electricwala, Kanna, Nima Dorje (India)
Harish Kapadia E-mail: harikaps@vsnl.com, HMS 225,
HCN/L 54
PAKISTAN (Hushe - Nangma Valley) Shingu Charpa (the Great Tower) (c 5600) 1st Ascent - W Face (5.11, A2) (23 Jul)
Sin Dong-Chul, Bang Jung-Ho, Hwang Young-Soon (Korea)
HMS 221, Corean Alpine Club, AAJ 75
(Hushe - Nangma Valley) Amin Brakk (c 5850) New Route - W Face (“Namkor”, 1550m, 6b+, A5) (31 Jul)
Adolfo Madinabeitia, Juan Miranda (Spain)
Adolfo Madinabeitia, pL Dantzari, 7-4-B, 01005 Vitoria, Spain. Tel: +34-945-146742. HMS 221, AAJ 75
(Hushe - Nangma Valley) Brakk Zang (“Sotulpa Peak”) (c 4800) New Route - E Face (“L Hand”, VI, 5.9, A4-) (AAJ S Face) (nr)
Jang Hyung-Won, Lim Sung Muk, Shin Moon-He (Korea)
New Route - E Face (“R Hand”, VI, 5.9, A3+) (AAJ S Face) (nr)
Anjong Neanj, Moon Sung Wook (Korea)
HMS 221, AAJ 75
(Hushe - Nangma Valley) Kampur (aka Dhiang Pk) (5499) 1st Ascent - NW Face (1500m) (5 Aug)
Carlos Buhler (USA), Ivan Durashin (Russia)
HMS 221, AAJ 75, www.intraisass.it/chiantar
(Hushe-Honboro Valley) Daare peak (5650) (29 Jun)
Iñake San Vicente, Txus Martín, Jose Carlos Tamayo (Spain)
AAJ 75
(Hushe - Kharidas Valley) Ibrahim Brakk (c 5200) 1st Ascent - S Ridge (“Azad Kashmir”, 700m, V, 5.10+, R) (18 Jul)
Nils Davis, Todd Offenbacher (USA), Sean Isaac (Canada)
HMS 221
(Baltoro - Hainabrakk Group) Hainabrakk East Tower (c 5800) 1st Ascent - SW Face (“For Better or For Worse”, 1100m, VII, 5, 12A) (27 Jul)
Heather Baer, Roxanna Brock, Brian McCray, Steve Schneider (USA)
HMS 221, AAJ 75 (article)
(Baltoro - Hainabrakk Group) Hainabrakk East Tower (c 5800) New Route - E Face (“Tague it to the Top”, 5.11, C2) (28 Jul)
(Baltoro - Hainabrakk Group) Cat’s Ear Spire (c 5700) 1st Ascent (“Freebird”, 1200m, 5.11+, A0) (17 Jul)
Jonathan Copp, Michael Pennings (USA)
HMS 221, AAJ 75
(Baltoro - Hainabrakk Group) Shipton Spire (5852) New Route to join Ship of Fools (“Akelarre”, 1150m, 6b, A4) (mid Aug)
José Eskibel, Jokin Lamañaga, Tasio Ortiz (Spain)
HMS 221, AAJ 75, SGIM
(Baltoro - W of Broad Peak BC) Unnamed (c 6000) Probable 1st Ascent (nr)
Hans Kammerlander + Party (Italy)
HMS 221
(Baltoro - S of Lopsang Spire) Unnamed Peak (c 5600) probable 1st Ascent - W Face (7-) (Jul)
Rolf Wurster + Party (Germany)
DAV (map)
(Central Karakoram - Kondus Valley) Tahir Tower (c 1000) 1st Ascent (“All Quiet on the Eastern Front”, 35 pitches, 5.11, A5) (20 Jul)
Dave Anderson, Jimmy Chin, Steph Davis, Brady Robinson (USA)
HMS 221, AAJ 75
(Central Karakoram - Sokha Glacier) Unnamed Peak (Aug)
Ian Arnold, Dave Millman (Britain)
Dave Wilkinson, 69 Booth’s Farm Road, Great Barr, Birmingham, B42 2NR, UK.
E-mail: david.wilkinson@uce.ac.uk.
(Western Karakoram - Borth Glacier 36o.917N, 74o.399E) Nico Sar (c 5800) 1st Ascent (1000m, 700) (12 Aug)
Walter Keller, Amy Rice (USA)
HMS 221, AAJ 75
(Western Karakoram - Nanga Parbat) (8126) New Route to 7500m - NW Face (29 Jul)
Hans Peter Eisendle, Reinhold Messner, Wolfgang Thomaseth (Italy)
HMS 221, AAJ 75
Central Karakoram (Solu Glacier) Sekha Brakk (5450) 1st Ascent (Aug)
Ken Findlay, Paul Hudson, Dave Wilkinson, Karl Zientek (Britain)
Dave Wilkinson, 69 Booth’s Farm Road, Great Barr, Birmingham, B42 2NR, UK.
E-mail: david.wilkinson@uce.ac.uk.
HMS 221, AAJ 75
(West Karakoram) Spantik (7028) New Route - Golden Pillar Centre of N Face (6B, F 7a, A3, 95o?) (18 Jun)
Mikhail Davy, Alexander Klenov (Russia)
HMS 221, AAJ 75 (Article) Risk
(West Karakoram) Spantik (7028) Variation - Golden Pillar (Scottish IV-VI) (Jun)
Emmanuel Guy, Emmanuel Pellisier (France), Attila Ozsuath (Hungary), Marko Prezelj (Slovenia)
HMS 221, AAJ 75 (Article)
(West Karakoram - Spantik) Ha Chish (6070) Possible 1st Ascent (nr)
Emmanuel Guy, Emmanuel Pellisier (France)
HMS 221
(Shuijerab Valley) Dest-Sar (6050) 1st Ascent (20 Jul)
Susana Elosegi, Koke Lasa (Spain),
Rui Peak (5650) 1st Ascent (18 Jul)
Susana Elosegi, Koke Lasa, Hurban Mohammed (Pakistan)
Tarin Sar (5880) 1st Ascent (28 Jul)
Luis Miguel Lopez Soriano, Koke Lasa (Spain)
Yaz Sar (6010) 1st Ascent (27 Jul)
Susana Elosegi, Koke Lasa, Luis Miguel Lopez Soriano
Luis Miguel Lopez Soriano (Exp. Shuijerab 2000), Del Rio,
8-1o-B, 28440 Guadarrama, Madrid, Spain.
E-mail: luis@graficadirecta.com. SGIM
(Hindu Raj - Suj Glacier) Pt 6189 1st Ascent - SW Face (1400m, 70o) (nr)
Five peaks - Nicolajewka Kor (5935), Punta Marostica, Italia Peak, Renato Casarotto Kor, Junipens Tower 1st Ascents? (VII, ED+, AO)
Franco Brunello + Party (Italy)
www.intraisass.it/news.htm, HMS 222
[Note: Five peaks CISDAE Report]
(Hindu Raj - Ishkoman) “Khan Sar” (5708) 1st Ascent - E Face (24 Jul)
“Sahan Sar” (c 5500) 1st Ascent - N Face (30 Aug)
Graham Rowbotham (Canada), Bryan Godfrey, Jock Jeffery (New Zealand), Peter Ford, Simon Woods (Britain)
Simon Woods. E-mail: sidwood@totalise.co.uk.
HMS 222, AAJ 75
(Hindu Raj - Matkesh/Ochiri Valley) Uddin Zom (6010) 1st Ascent - W Face to N Ridge (1200m, Alpine D-, 80o) (30 Jul)
Phil Amos, Adam Thomas, Simon Woods (Britain), Jock Jeffery (New Zealand)
Adam Thomas, 7/12 Buchanan Street, Edinburgh, EH6 8ST, Scotland. E-mail: adam.thomas@community-fund.org.uk.
www.virginsummits.org. HMS 222
ALTAI (Tabun Bogd) Sneznaja Cerkov (c 4100) New Route - NW Face/SW Ridge (nr)
Dave Bamford, John Nankervis (New Zealand)
HMS 229
Geroev Aktata (Altai Heroes) (nr) Possible New Route - NW Slopes (3A) (11 Aug)
S Barnov, D Komissarov (Russia)
Risk
Kan-Karakabak (nr) Possible New Route - NW Rib (2A) (25 Aug)
A Cherkasov, A Danilov, M Cherkasova (Russia)
Risk
Maral-Karakabak (nr) Possible New Route - NW Ridge (3A) (21 Aug)
A Cherkasov, M Cherkasova (Russia)
Risk
Ostry (3751) New Route - N Rib (1B) (2 May)
S Barnov, I Golovina, Yu Gerdeva, S Mogilev, S Popov (Russia)
Risk
Ostry (3751) New Route - NE Ridge (2A) (3 May)
A Drakin, S Barnov (Russia)
Risk
Russia of XX Century (3100) New Route - NE Ridge - Traverse to Instructorov Peak (3A Traverse) (28 Jul)
A Drakin, V Mokhova, A Shylakahovoy (Russia)
Risk
Spasatel (nr) New Route - NW Slope via “Pillow” of Rescue Ranger (2B) (19 Aug)
S Barnov, A Eremin, D Komissarov, O Neyaskina (Russia)
Risk
Surprise (North) (3060) New Route - N Ridge - Surprise (South) Traverse (1B Traverse) (22 Jul)
A Drakin, P Gavrishenko, V Mokhova, A Shlyakhovoy (Russia)
Risk
Chaptynova (nr) New Route - Diretissima of N Slope (2B) (24 Aug)
S Barnov, A Eremin, D Komossarov, O Neyaskina (Russia)
Risk
Pt 3650 New Route - E Slope of N Ridge (2B) (5 May)
S Barnov, A Drakin (Russia)
Risk
TIEN SHAN (Kyrgysky Ridge) Korona (4810) (1st Tower) New Route - R side of N Face (“The Route of Mobiles”, 900m, 5.10, A1, 74) (22 Jan)
Alexander Ruchkin (Russia), Dmitry Grekov, Andrey Puchinin (Kyrgyzstan)
AAJ 74 (Ruchkin), HMS 228, Risk
Free Korea Pk (4740) Possible New Route - N Face (“Grey Rocks Girdle”) (Nov)
Vitaly Akimov, Alexander Gubayev, Mikhail Mikhailov, Andrey Puchinin (Russia)
HMS 228
(Ala Archa) Tsun ami (4750) 1st Ascent - SW Ridge (PD-) (nr)
Four other peaks probable 1st Ascents
Rob Johnson, British Schools Expedition
HMS 228
(Meridionalny Ridge) Khan-Tengri (6995) New Route - Centre of N Face (6B) (9 Aug)
D Urubko, D Molgachev, V Pivzov, A Rudakov, S Samoilov (Kazakhstan)
Risk
(Badgalsky Ridge - Khabarovskiy kray) Marion (E) (nr) New Route - N Buttress (2A) (2 May)
A Krasnoluzky, N Gaineeva, A Zarchikov, A Isaev, A Makarenko, A Soldatov, M Zilik (Russia)
Risk
(Badgalsky Ridge - Khabarovskiy kray) Omot (nr) New Route - L Rib of NW Face’s Central Buttress (3B) (10 May)
A Krasnoluxky, A Zarchikov, A Makarenko, A Soldatov, M Zilik (Russia)
Risk
(Badgalsky Ridge - Khabarovskiy kray) Fregat (nr) Central Buttress New Route (2B) (3 May)
A Krasnoluzky, N Gaineeva, A Zarchikov, A Isaev, A Makarenko, A Soldatov, M Zilik (Russia)
Risk
KYRGHYZSTAN (Eastern Zaalayskiy Range) Pil Golova Orla (5440) 1st Ascent (“The Eagle’s Head”, D+) (Jul)
Pik Querelda (5439) 1st Ascent (D) (Jul)
1st Ascents of 7 other peaks (Jul)
Tom Avery, Nick Stopford, George Wells, Patrick Woodhead (Britain), Anatoly Moshnikov, Vladimir Vysochkiy (Russia), Scott Jamison (Australia)
Tom Avery, 26 Ranelagh House, Elystan Place, London, SW3 3LD, UK. See also NOW.com.
(Kiulu Range - Karator and Ashutor Valleys) Karator (5303) 1st Ascent (Sep)
Matarshinitsa (5088) 1st Ascent (Sep)
David Bowden, Ingrid Crossland, Morrie Erickson, Tony Gold, Diamid Hearns, Pat Littlejohn, Ursula Mulcahy, Victor Saunders, James Stephenson, Jane Witmore, Andrew Wilkinson (Britain/Ireland), Vladimir Komissarov (Kyrghyzstan)
Pat Littlejohn, Hafod, Tan y Craig, Nant Gwynant, Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 9NW, UK. E-mail: patl@dial.pipex.com.
HMS 228
KAZAKHSTAN (Dhzungarskiy Alatau) Possible 1st Ascents of seven summits up to 4,511m and 2nd overall Ascent (possible New Route) of highest summit Pic Tien-Shansky (4622) (Jul/Aug)
12 member British Military Survey Expedition led by Stuart Batey
Stuart Batey, Royal School of Military Survey, Hermitage, Berks, RG18 9TP, UK. HMS 228
TYVA REPUBLIC (Tzagan-Shietu) Vostochny (3320) New Route - L Side of NW Buttress (4B) (6 May)
N Timofeev, M Zvyagintzev, E Zenovich, A Ruanov (Russia)
Risk
(Tzagan-Shietu) Vostochny (3320) New Route -N Face Couloir (5A) (7 May)
D Kiselev, V Balesin, E Badyagin, D Prokofiev, S Sorokin (Russia)
Risk
(Tzagan-Shietu) Munkhulik (3577) New Route - “Sickle” of N Face R Sige (4A) (2 May)
S Senashov, V Sereda, A Shlepkin, S Yarovikov (Russia)
Risk
(Tzagan-Shietu) Norilsk (3270) New Route - SE Face of NE Buttress (3A) (3 May)
V Balesin, K Kalinovksy (Russia)
Risk
RUSSIA (Siberia-Ergaky Group) Pik Eagle (Italia 2000 route, Alkor Club route); Pik Star - S Face; Pik Mouste - SE Ridge (nr)
Group from CAI Valmadrera (Italy)
CISDAE
ARCTIC
GREENLAND (Tasermiut Fjord) Nalumasortoq (2049) New Route - RH Pillar (“Na c’due Senza Tre”, 800m, F 6c, A3) (Jun)
Mario Manica, Francesco Vaudo, Giancarlo Ruffino [not to summit] (Italy), Jerôme Arpen (France)
Mario Manica, via Barattieri, 38068 Roverto TN.
Tel: 0464-432835. HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Tasermiut Fjord) Nalumasortoq (2049) New Route - RH Pillar (“Conspiracy Planet”, 800m, VIII, A3+) (Jul)
Jacek Fluder, Janusz Golab, Stanislaw Piecuch, Marcin Tomaszewski (Poland)
PZA High Mountain Documentation Centre, glazekg@poczta.fm. HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Tasermiut Fjord) Nalumasortoq (2049) New Route - LH Pillar L Side, (“Life is Beautiful”, 600m, 5.9, A2+) (Jul)
Takashi Suzuki, Hitashi Yamaoka (Japan)
HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Tasermiut Fjord) Ulamertorssuaq West (1830) New Route - W Face (“What’s Bred in the Bone”, 1100m, 5.10+, A2+) (18 Jul)
Jia Condon, Rich Prohaska (Canada)
HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Tasermiut Fjord) Ulamertorssuaq (nr) New Route - W Face (“Piteraq”, 22 pitches, 5.9, A3+) (Jul)
Lars Haugen (Norway), Matthias Körner (Germany), Torben Redder, Jens Søndergaard (Denmark)
HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Tasermiut Fjord) Little Ulamerstorssuaq (c 1440) New Route - W Face (“Mosquito Attack”, 7 pitches, VII, A0) (Jul?)
Matthias Körner (Germany), Torben Redder (Denmark)
HMS 223, AAJ 75
http://www.MountainSport.dk
(Tasermiut Fjord) Ketil (2010) New Route - W Face (“Anissa”, 1200m, 6b+, A3) (Jul)
Eduardo Alonso (Spain), David Jonglez (France)
HMS 223, AAJ 75, SGIM, Eduardo Alonso
(Torssukatak Sound - Eastern Torssuqatoq Spires) Whaletop (1303) 1st Ascent (“Easy”) (6 Aug)
Jon Bracey, Matt Goode (Britain)
Whaleback (c 1200) 1st Ascent - SW Arête (“Killer Whale”, ED1, E2 5c) (Aug)
Vicky Barrat, Matt Goode (Britain)
Flat Top (c 1120) 1st Ascent - NW Ridge (Aug)
Great White Spire (c 1050) 1st Ascent - W Ridge (Aug)
Whaletop Pyramid New Route - NW Ridge (D) (Aug)
Breakfast Spire New Route (“Over Easy, 430m, TD, E2 5b) (Aug)
Flat Top Submarine Ridge New Route - NW Face (240m, E3 6a) (Aug)
Vicky Barrat, Jon Bracey, Virginia Cooper, Matt Goode, Charlotte Mainwaring, Alex Messenger, Steve Powell, Ian Renshaw (Britain) [Parties on each peak not specified]
Jon Bracey, Chantry Farm, Perrystone, Ross-on-Wye, Herefordshire, HR9 7QU, UK. HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Torssukatak Sound) Agdlerussakasit (1750) 1st Ascent - E Face (“The Thumbnail”, 1350, 31 pitches, E6 6b) (4 Aug)
Ben Bransby, Matt Dickinson, Ian Parnell, Gareth Parry (Britain)
Ian Parnell, 71 Sheldon Road, Sheffield, S7 1EU, UK.
E-mail: ianparnell@blueyonder.co.uk
HMS 223, AAJ 75 (article)
(Kangikitsoq Fjord) Junction Peak (1260) 1st Ascent - E Ridge (AD, S) (Aug)
Colossus (1703) 1st Ascent - SE Ridge (20 pitches, TD+, 5b/c) (Aug)
Blade (1617) 1st Ascent - S Ridge (“Stairway to Heaven”, 10 pitches, TD, 5a/b) (Aug)
Chris Bonington, Rob Ferguson, Jim Lowther, John Porter (Britain)
Sgorr a’ Ceo (2001) and 3 others 1st Ascents (Aug)
Graham Little, Scott Muir (Britain - Scotland)
Battle Axe (1852) 1st Ascent - SSE Face (1050m, ED2, V, 5.10, A1) (9 Aug)
Warrior Peak (1948) 1st Ascent - W Pillar (575m, IV, 5.11, R) (Aug)
Mark Richey, Mark Wilford (USA)
4 additional new routes (Aug)
Party: Chris Bonington, Rob Ferguson, Graham Little, Jim Lowther, Scott Muir, John Porter (Britain), Mark Richey, Mark Wilford (USA)
Jim Lowther, Howgate Foot, Bampton, Penrith, Cumbria, CA10 2 PU, UK. E-mail: jim.lowther@lowther.co.uk
HMS 223, AAJ 75 (article with map)
(West Greenland - West Coast) Sandersons Hope (Quaersorssuaq) (c 1050) New Route - N Wall (“Arctic First Born”, 800m, E3 5c, A3+) (8 Sep)
Graham Austick (Britain), Paolo Paglino, Alberto Zucchetti (Italy)
(West Greenland - Kangerdluarssuargssuaq) Pt 1510 West of Paornaqussuit Qavat (“Scotland the Brave”) (Aug)
Pt 1230 West of Paornaqussuit Qavat (Aug)
“Aussie Peak” (1230) 1st Ascent (Aug)
Bob Shepton (Britain), Laurie Haynes, Steve Holland (Australia)
Bob Shepton, Innisfree, Appin, Argyll, PA38 4DA, UK.
E-mail: bob@innisfree.freeonline.co.uk.
HMS 225, AAJ75(photo- Sanderson’s Hope)
(East Greenland - Valley N of Kungmiut) 1100 Pk, 1st Ascent - S Face to SW Ridge (“Piteraq”, V-, 65o) (Mar)
1100 (E of above) 1st Ascent - S Pillar (“Issi”, V, 70o) (Mar)
(First Valley E of Kungmiut) Pk Halfway up Valley, 1st Ascent - SE Pillar (V, AO, 75o) (Mar)
Eduard Birnbacher, Sabine Krol (nr)
HMS 225, AAJ 75
(East Greenland - Lemon Mountains) The Steeple (2360) 1st Ascent - E Face (TD, V, 5) (Jun/Jul)
Citadel (2550) 1st Ascent - E Ridge (D+, V-) (Jun/Jul)
Lindbergh Mountains Three 1st Ascents (up to 2850) (Jun/Jul)
Included in 29 New Routes and 17 previously unclimbed summits
Nicola Faulks, Rupert Finn, Danny Haywood, Lucy Pash, Richard Pash, Tom Spreyer, James Thacker, Pippa Whitehouse (Britain)
Richard Pash, 26 Queen’s Road, Twickenham, TW1 4EX, UK. E-mail: pottypashes@yahoo.com.
See also www.wayupnorth.clara.co.uk. AAJ 75
(Watkins Mountains - Upper Wodey Glacier) Sphynx (3210) 1st Ascent (May)
Ladies Peak (2992) 1st Ascent (May)
Pyramid Peak (3320) 1st Ascent (May)
International Peak (3410) 1st Ascent (May)
Anne Picard (Netherlands), Charlotte Steinmeir (Germany), Christine Watkins (Britain)
Christine Watkins, 29 Dalvait Road, Balloch, Alexandria, Dunbartonshire, G83 8LA, UK.
E-mail: cwatkins@globalnet.co.uk. HMS 225
(Schweizerland) Tupilak (2264) New Route - S Wall (“Pitteraq”, 650m, 7, A3) (31 Jul)
Alexander Fidi, Matthias Leitner, Wolfgang Schöls (Austria), Richard Jewell (Britain)
Schartenspitz (1260) New Route - S Pillar (“Holiday on Ice”, 480m, 7) (8 Aug)
Wolfgang Schöls, Julian Neumayer, Jörg Susnik (Austria)
Rytternaegten (2020) New Route - S Pillar (“Jackpot”, 1000m, 6 [direct 7+]) (9 Aug)
Alexander Fidi, Richard Jewell
Alexander Fidi, Rosegger Str. 112, A8670 Krieglach, Austria. Tel: +43-664-1760373,
E-mail: franz.fidi@hrl-kapfenburg.ac.au
(Lindbergh Fjeld) Jaefteborg (3050) 1st Ascent (2 Aug)
and 13 other 1st Ascents (27 Jul - 7 Aug)
Mike Berthold, Paul Campion, Jonathan Clark, Sam Dickenson, Chris Helliwell, Vanessa Helliwell, Ben Irons, David Keaton, Adrian Pedley, Paul Walker (USA)
AAJ 75
NORTH AMERICA
BAFFIN ISLAND (Eglinton Fjord) Polar Bear Spire (nr) 1st Ascent (“Odyssey 2000”, 500m, 5.12, belays bolted) (23 Aug)
Kurt Albert, Stefan Glowacz, Gerhard Heidorn, Holger Heuber (Germany)
AAJ 75 (photo)
(Sam Ford Fjord) Polar Sun Spire (nr) New Route - N Face to E Pillar (“Norwegian Route”, 30 pitches, VII, 5.10, A4) (26 May)
Bjarte Bo, Halvor Hagen, Torkel Roisli, Odd-Roar Wiik (Norway)
Tunnel S Summit (nr) New Route - S Face (“Insomnia”, 450m, IV, 5.10+, A1 (Jun)
Halvor Hagen, Odd-Roar Wiik (Norway)
Great Cross Pillar (nr) New Route (“Helluland Revisited”, 18 pitches, V, 5.11, A1) (Jun)
Bjarte Bo, Torkel Roisli (Norway)
AAJ 75, www.headwall.com (Baffin Section)
(Sam Ford Fjord) The Fin (approx. 760) New Route (“Earth, Wind and Choss”, VI, 5.10, A2+) (Jun)
Jos Hellim, Mike Libecki, Russel Mitrovitch, John Middendorf (USA)
AAJ 75 (photo)
(Gibbs Fjord) Cat’s Eye Wall (approx. 1000) New Route - Pillar (“Out of the Pan and Into the Fire”, VII, 5.10, A4, WI3) (nr)
Jason Methot, Jason Robinson (Canada)
AAJ 75 (photo)
(Gibbs Fjord) Ursa Major (approx. 1000) New Route - Centre of Wall (“Midnight Watch”) (May)
Ben DeMenech, Matt Maddalon, John Millar (Canada)
AAJ 75
CANADA/ALASKA (St Elias Mountains) Mt Baird (3330) 1st Ascent - E Ridge (70o) (May/Jun)
Jay Bubee, Dave Hildes, John Miller (Canada), Alun Hubbard (Britain)
Alun Hubbard, Kyana House, Borth, Dyfed, SY24 5AJ, UK.
AAJ 75
(St Elias Mountains) Illinois Mtn, 9547 (2910) Probable 1st Ascent (9 May)
Mount Vermont, 9874 (3002) Probable 1st Ascent (May)
Hawaii Peak, 8580 (2615) Probable 1st Ascent (May)
Brad Metz, Sam Nelson, Keith Schumacher (USA)
AAJ 75
(St Elias Mountains - Lowell Glacier) two probable 1st Ascents of small peaks (May)
Kennedy (4238) 1st alpine style Ascent - N Buttress (via an all free variant) (May)
Andy Cave, Mick Fowler, Chris Pasteur, Duncan Tunstall (Britain)
Mick Fowler, Kings Newton House, Main Street, Kings Newtown, South Derbyshire, DE7 1BX
E-mail: mickfowler@kingsnewton.freeserve.co.uk
AJ 106 (article), AAJ 75
(St Elias Mountains) Peak 9195 (2803) New Route - NW Side (2 May)
Peak 9720 (2963) Possible 1st Ascent (May)
Lee Jenkins, John Roe (USA)
AAJ 75
(St Elias Mountains) Mount Hawkins (c 3222) 1st Ascent - E Ridge (13 Apr)
Paul Claus, Joy Claus (USA), Ruedi Homberger (Switzerland)
AAJ 75
(St Elias Mountains) Mount Teddy (3960) 1st Ascent - E Face (1 Jun)
Werner Stucti, Christian Zinsli (Switzerland)
AAJ 75
ALASKA (Pika Glacier) Throne (2252) New Route - W Face, R of Prow (“Eat the Queen”, 5.9, A2+) (Jun/Jul)
Throne (2252) New Route - W Face, L of Prow (“The Emperor’s Hanging Gardens”, 5.10, A2+) (Jun/Jul)
Royal Tower (2478) New Route - E Face, R of The Chase to tob of buttress (“Insurrection”, 5.9, A.2) (Jun/Jul)
Josh Borof, Mark Davis, Bill Gamble, Chris Giles (USA)
HMS 225, AAJ 75
(Pika Glacier) Royal Tower (2478) New Route - SE Face (300m, 5.10) (20 Jun)
John Burcham, John Mattson, Josh Zimmerman (USA)
AAJ 75 (photo)
(Ruth Gorge) Johnson (2560) New Route - SE Couloir (“The Escalator”) (nr)
Seth Shaw, Tim Wagner (USA)
HMS 218, AAJ 75
(Ruth Gorge) Mount Bradley (nr) New Route - S Face (nr)
Michael Schaefer, Blair Williams (USA)
AAJ 75
(Ruth Gorge) Mt Tassles (2090) 1st Ascent - Central Couloir on W Face (TD- WI 3+) (16 May)
Mount Sholes (1835) 1st Ascent (13 May)
Geoff Hornby (Britain), Mike Smith (USA)
Geoff Hornby, The Coach House, Wingfield Hall, near Alfreton, Derbyshire, DE55 7NH. E-mail: geoffhornby@yahoo.co.uk
HMS 217, AAJ 75 (photo)
(Alaska Range) Mount Hunter (4442) New Route - N Buttress (“The Knowledge”, 1200m, Alaskan 6, ED4) (31 May)
Jules Cartwright, Ian Parnell (Britain)
Ian Parnell, 71 Sheldon Road, Sheffield, S7 1EU, UK.
E-mail: ianparnell@blueyonder.co.uk
HMS 217
(Anchorage) Ptarmigan Peak (c 1500) New Route - N Face (“Thirty Two and Beautiful”, M8+) (nr)
Carl Tobin (nr)
HMS 217
(Buckskin Glacier) Pt 8300 ft (Mooseskin Mtn) (2530) New Route - S Face (WI6) (28 Sep)
Ben Gilmore, Steve House, Kevin Mahoney (USA)
AAJ 75
(Buckskin Glacier) Pt 9160 (Canadian Rockies Peak) (2700) 1st Ascent - S Face (WI3) (30 Sep)
Scott de Capio (USA)
HMS 218, AAJ 75
Moose’s Tooth (nr) New Route - SE Face (5.8, WI4, A3) (3 Oct)
Ben Gilmore, Steve House, Kevin Mahoney (USA)
HMS 218, AAJ 75 (photo)
(Alaska Range - The Crown and Dix Glaciers) 13 1st Ascents on 12 previously unclimbed peaks including:
Tiara’s East Summit (2225) (May)
Deception Peak (1960) (May)
(Climbing to TD- and Scottish 5/6) (May)
Brian Davison, Lindsay Griffin, Brian Griffiths (Britain)
Lindsay Griffin, 2 Top Sling, Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd, LL57 4RL, UK. E-mail: lgriffin@highmag.cix.co.uk. AAJ 75 (photo)
(Delta Range) Item Peak (2340) New Route - N Face (540m) (nr)
Jeff Apple Benowitz, Shad O’Neel (USA)
AAJ 75
(Alaska Range) Peak 8920 (2719) 1st Ascent - E Face (nr)
Jeff Apple Benowitz, Smith Cum (USA)
AAJ 75
(Alaska Range) Thunder Mountain (nr) New Route - S Face to Central spur (nr)
John Bragg, Jim Donini (USA)
AAJ 75 (photo), HMS 217
(Alaska Range) Mount Huntington (3792) New Route - W Face to pillar (not summit) (“Golden Granite W Face”, 360m) (nr)
Brad Grohusky, Mike Gruber, Mark Thompson, Rod Willand (USA)
AAJ 75 (photo)
(Revelation Mountains) Peak 9560 (2941) New Route (“Ice Schooner”) (May?)
Ryan Hokanson, Kirby Spangler (nr)
AAJ 75 (photo)
(Wrangell Mountains) Pk 10,630 (3239) New Route? (50o ice) (8 May)
Pk 10,150 (3094) New Route? (9 May)
Danny Kost (USA)
AAJ 75 (photo)
(Wrangell Mountains) “Mt Schou”, Pk 9072 (2765) New Route - NE Ridge to N Ridge (Jul)
Peak 8625 (2628) New Route - Couloir to N Ridge (Jul)
Peak 8778 (2676) New Route - W Face (Jul)
Sean Burch, Chad Taylor (USA)
AAJ 75
(Chugach Mountains) Peak 8530 (2600) 1st Ascent - N Face (1050m, 70o ice) (Jul)
Karen Hilton, Carl Oswald (USA)
AAJ 75
(Coast Mountains) Oasis Peak (nr) 1st Ascent - S Ridge (2 Aug)
Kelvin Vail, Jon Walsh (USA)
AAJ 75 (photo)
(Coast Mountains) North Taku Tower (nr) Probable New Route - S Face (“Magic Line”, IV, 5.9, A1) (Jun)
Stefan Ricci, Michael Wolf (USA)
AAJ 75 (photo)
SOUTH AMERICA
ECUADOR Antisana Sur (c 5700) New Route - NW Face (“Grade 4”, 65o snow and ice) (14 Feb)
Tim Connolly, Joe Stock (USA)
AAJ 75
PERU (C. Huayhuash) Puscanturpa Norte (5652) New Route - N/NE Face (“Mananacota”, 700m, 7a, A2) (1 Aug)
Guillaume Avrisani, Alban Faure, Frédéric Pouraz (France)
SGIM, HMS 227, AAJ 75 (photo)
(C. Huayhuash) Puscanturpa Norte (5652) New Route - NW Face (“Pasta Religion”, 700m, 7a, mixed, 80/85o) (9 Jun)
Xavier Baudet, Lionel Daudet, François Lombard (France)
HMS 223, AAJ 75 (photo)
(C. Blanca) Artesonraju (6025) New Route - N/NE Face (800m, D-, 55o) (Jun)
Nemesio Matalobos, Angel Terrén (Spain)
SGIM, HMS 227
(C. Blanca) Urús Oeste II (c 4500) Probable New Route - S Side (400m, 75o, V Mixt) (26 Jul)
David Rodriguez (Spain), Richard Wilson (Peru)
SGIM, HMS 227
(C. Blanca) North Pyramid (nr) New Route (Aug)
Fabio Lattavo (Italy)
CISDAE
(C. Blanca - Chinchey Group) Palcaraju Sur (5900) New Route - S Face (600m, ED-) (11 Jul)
Ales Zagar (Slovenia)
SGIM, HMS 227
(C. Blanca - Chinchey Group) Palcaraju Oeste (6110) New Route - S Face (“Tempéte de Joie”, 600m, MD+) (nr)
B Peyronnard, F Brehé (France)
SGIM
(C. Blanca - Chinchey Group) Palcaraju Oeste (6110) New Route - W Face (“Ratz Fatz”, 500m, TD-, mixed) (25 Jul)
Eduardo Mondragon (Spain), Martin Waldhoer (Germany)
HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Paron Valley) Sphinx (aka La Esfinge) (5325) New Route - E Face (“Riddle of the C. Blanca”, 750m, 5.10+, A3) (19 May)
Nils Davis, Todd Offenbacher (USA)
HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Paron Valley) Sphinx (5325) New Route - E Face (“Little Fluffy Clouds”, 650m, E5 5c) (Jul)
Patch Hammond, Neill Dyer (Britain)
HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Paron Valley) Sphinx (5325) New Route - E Face (“Here Comes the Sun”, 700m, E3 5c, A3) (3 Jun)
Brian Bigger (Britain), Lucy Regan (Ireland)
Lucy Regan, 44 Wytham St, Oxford, Ox1 4TS, UK.
E-mail: lr@rmchost.demon.co.uk
HMS 222 (Full Report), HMS 223, AAJ 75 (Article 2nd Ascent)
(Paron Valley) Sphinx (5325) New Route - E Face (“Todos Narcos”, 750m, E 6c, A3) (23 Jul)
José Fernandez, Dani Lacueva (Spain)
HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Paron Valley) Sphinx (5325) New Route - E Face (“Cruz del Sur”, 800m, 7c+, 7a, obl) (10 Jul)
Mauro Bole (Italy), Silvo Karo, Boris Strmsek (Slovenia)
Mauro Bole, via dei Morere 68, 34154 Trieste.
E-mail: bole@libero.it. HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Paron Valley) Sphinx (5325) New Route - E Face (“Lobo Estepario”, 650m, F 6b, A3) (18 Jul)
Jonás Cruces Fernandez (Spain)
HMS 223, AAJ 75
(Paron Valley) Sphinx (5325) New Route - E Face (“Intuition”, 600m, 5.12c) (Jul)
Taki Miyamoto (Japan), David Sharatt (Britain)
Adam Wainwright. E-mail: adam@gogarth.f9.co.uk. HMS 223, AAJ 75
(C. Raura) Cerro Chacua Grande (5405) New Route - S Face (700m, V 65o) (16 Jul)
Chacua Norte (5165) New Route - S Face (“American Sport Pollo”, 300m, IV) (18 Jul)
Axel Jahn, Jan Lettke, Dieter Ruelker, Jeorg Stingl, Markus Walter (Germany)
Chacua Sur (5150) Chacua Central (8195) Chacua Norte 1st Traverse? SE - NW (II-III) (20 Jul)
Markus Walter
AAJ 75
(C. Huarochirí, aka C. Pariacacca) Jatun Jaico (5302) 1st Ascent (Jul)
Evelio Echevarria, Alberto Murguía (Peru)
Nevado Chujupucro (5150) 1st Ascent (Jul)
Yurachucclju (5200) 1st Ascent (Jul)
Riguis (5000) 1st Ascent (Jul)
Evelio Echevarria
Nevado Paccha (5350) 1st Ascent (Jul)
Alberto Murguiá, Guillermo Portocarrero (Peru)
Ice Peak (c 5200) 1st Ascent (Aug)
Alberto Murguiá
AAJ 75
BOLIVIA (C. Apolobamba) “Pico Pedros” (5470) Possible 1st Ascent - N Face (550m, TD) (27 Jul)
Peter Boerstoel, Peter Valkenburg (Netherlands)
HMS 223
[Note: See HMS 223 for 6 possible new routes by this party]
(C. Apolobamba) Chuchillo 1 (5655) New Route - SE Buttress to SE Face (111, mixed) (nr)
Pt 5550, Probable 1st Ascent - SE Face (mixed 60o) (nr)
Huay Huari (5680) New Route - E Face (III, Scottish II) (nr)
Pt c 5600 on ENE Ridge of Huay Huari (III+, Scottish III) (nr)
Kate Ackroyd, Simon Cooke, David Gerrard, Andy Naslas, Toby Spence (Britain)
HMS 215
Santa Vera Cruz (5560) New Route (“La Ruta de los Arqueologos-Jenecherú”, II, 55o) (nr)
Javier Sanchez (Spain), Oswaldo Rivera, Pablo Rendon (Bolivia)
SGIM
(Condoriri Group) Huallomen (5463) New Route - SW Face (“Wyoming”, mixed 90o ice (nr)
Two Argentinians
HMS 215
(C. Quimsa Cruz - North) Cerro Taruca Umana Pyramide (4825) 10 1st Ascents (HVS, 4c-E2 5c) (Aug)
Tres Hermanas (4990, 4990, 4995) First Traverse? (Aug)
Sharon Abbott, Brian Cummins, Wayne Gladwin, John James, Mike Rosser, Paul Westwood (Britain)
Wayne Gladwin, 4 Hengoed Parc, Hengoed, Caephilly, CF82 7NG, UK. E-mail: w_gladwin@hotmail.com
HMS 223, AAJ 75
(C. Quimsa Cruz) “Pico Helado” (outlier of Sancho Khuno) (nr) 1st Ascent - W Ridge from Jancho Khuno (Aug)
Di Gilbert, Catrin Thomas (Britain)
“Tres Marias” (outlier of Jancho Khuno) 1st Ascent - SW Face (PD) (Aug)
Cerro Yaypuri (5500) 1st Ascent - SW Face to N Ridge (PD+) (Aug)
Di Gilbert, Sue Savage (Britain)
A possible 15 new routes and first ascents of several peaks up to AD and E1 5b (Aug)
Di Gilbert, Sarah Nuttall, Adele Pennington, Sue Savege, Catrin Thomas, Clare Waddington (Britain)
Dr Adele Pennington, 47 Romany Road, Great Ayton, Middlesbrough, Cleveland, TS9 6BX, UK.
E-mail: adele.pennington @talk21.com. Also Sue Savege, 1 Pen y Ffriddoedd, Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd, LL57 4NY, UK. E-mail: sue@savege.com
HMS 223, AAJ 75
(C. Real) Cerro Ventanani (5400) New Route - W Face (“Ruta de los Amigos”) (8 Jul)
Matt Wade (USA)
AAJ 75 (photo)
CHILE Cerro Laguna New Route - S Face (“Velho Alerce”, 340m, 6v, A2+) (nr)
Cerro Trinidad New Route (“Tabanos na Cara”, 750m, 6b, A3+) (nr)
Cerro Trinidad Torre Sur New Route - S Face (“Alendalala”, 400m, 7b) (nr)
Pedra do Gorila New Route - (“Mister M”, 500m, 6a, A1) (nr)
Serginho Chico (Brazil)
SGIM
(Homopiren Nat Park) Cuernos de Pireri (2186), Banded Pk (2080), Cerro Improbable (2033), Morning Star Pk (2342), Vizcacha Pk (1890), Florentina Pk (1859) All names given by climbers, all probable 1st Ascents (nr)
Randy Earlywine, Daniel Collins, Susan Detweiler, Rich Henke, Gary Perless (nr)
AAJ 74 (Perless). E-mail: gperless@yahoo.com)
(Cochamó) Roca Grande de la Junta (1795) (Cerro Cap I Cua) New Route (“Pluja, Fam I Feina”, 1010m, 6b, A4) (Feb)
Pau Barrios, Josep Maria Esquirol, Joanfra Farreras, Manel Solís, Xavier Teididó (Spain)
SGIM, AAJ 75
Cerro Juncal Sur (6004) 1st Ascent (nr)
Jürgen Straub (Germany)
DAV
Alto de los Leones (5380) New Route (“El Pillar del Paradiso Muerto”, 7/7+, A2/A3) (nr)
Jürgen Straub (Germany)
DAV
PATAGONIA (Fitzroy) Cerro Solo (2121) New Route - E Face (“Las Lagrimas de
(CHILE/ Solo”, WI5+) (9 Jan)
ARGENTINA) Bruce Millar (USA), Bruno Sourzac (France)
HMS 214
(Fitzroy) Cerro Standhart (2730) New Route - N Ridge (5.11, WI5, M4) (nr)
Nathan Martin, Tim O’Neill (USA)
HMS 214
(Fitzroy) Cerro Elétrico Norte (Château Noir) (c 2250) New Route - N Flank round by W and S Faces to finish from E (380m, PD F4+) (29 Dec)
Laurence Monnoyeur (France)
HMS 229
(Fitzroy) Aguja Mermoz (2732) New Route - NW Face (“Barriga Patagonica”, 600m, 6a+, A1) (12 Feb)
Zlatko Koren, Klemen Mali (Slovenia)
HMS 214
Fitzroy (3405) New Route -Vanche to Casarotto on NNE Pillar (5.9, A3) (19 Feb)
Ben Gilmore, Brady Robinson (USA)
HMS 215
(Fitzroy) Cerro Rincon (nr) New Route - N Face (27 Nov)
David Göttler, Michi Wärthl (Germany), Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland)
Punta Amigos (nr) 1st Ascent (27 Nov?)
Stephan Siegrist, Michi Wärthl
AAJ 75
(Fitzroy) Techado Negro (nr) Possible New Route - N Pillar (600m, 6a 50o) (19 Dec)
Stephan Huber, Thomas Tivadar (Germany)
AAJ 75
(Hielo Contintal) Cerros Dos Cumbres (3249) New Route - E Pillar (VI, 75o, M5) (Nov)
Tom Dauer, Michael Wärthl (Germany) Stepahn Siegrist (Switzerland)
AAJ 75 (photo), HMS 219
Punta Herron New Route (“Toboggan”, 700m, ED-, 85o, M6, 5+, A2) (nr)
Silvo Karo, Rolando Garibotti (Argentina)
SGIM
(Torres del Paine Nat Park) S Tower of Paine (c 2500) New Route - E Face (“Hoth”, 1050m, 5.10+, A4, WI2/3) (7 Feb)
Conny Amekinxen, Sean Easten (Canada)
HMS 215, AAJ 74 (photo)
(Torres del Paine Nat Park) Central Tower of Paine (nr), Variation - E Face (“Macaroni-Porridge Junction”, VIII, A3+) (17 Feb)
Marek Holecek, Filip Silhan, David Stastny, (Czech Republic)
HMS 215, AAJ 74
(Torres del Paine Nat Park) Cuerno Norte (c 2000) New Route - W Face (“Nacimientos”, V, 5.10, A1, 15 pitches) (13 Feb)
Andre Labarca, Claudio Retamal, Luis Ortiz (Chile)
AAJ 74 (S Echevarria and H Jofre)
(Torres del Paine Nat Park) Cuerno Este New Route - E Face (“Condorito”, 300m, 6b) (14 Jan)
Cuerno Chico New Route (“Pluma del Condor”, 300m, 6b) (17 Jan)
Carsten von Birckhahn, Anke Clauss (Germany)
AAJ 74 (Birckhahn, Clauss)
(Torres del Paine Nat Park) Espada (2050) New Route - W Face (“Chilly Willy”, 250m, VI, 5.8, A3) (2 Feb)
Thierry Biona, Jean Michel Zweiacker (Switzerland)
AAJ 74 (Echevarria/Jofre)
(Torres del Paine) Cerro Paine Grande (3050) New Route - W and S Side (450m, WI5) (28 Oct)
Rolando Garibotti, Bruno Sourzac (Argentina)
HMS 230, AAJ 74 (photo)
(Hielo Pategonico Norte - Aisen Group) Unnamed (c 2670) 1st Ascent (Jan/Feb)
Richard Leech, Oliver Shergold (Britain)
HMS 215
(Cordillera Sarmiento) La Dama Blanca (1925) 1st Ascent - E Spur to Col between S + N (higher) Summits (2 Feb)
Iñaki San Vicente, Jose Carlos Tamayo (Spain)
Jose Carlos Tamayo, La Galero, 11-3-D, 48910-Sestao (Gipuzkoa), Spain. HMS 215
(Tierra del Fuego) Cerro Selk’nam (nr) 1st Ascent (5.9, 70o ice) (Sep)
Miyazaki Motohiko (Japan)
ANTARCTICA
ANTARCTIC (Orville Coast - Hauberg Mountains) Two peaks (c 1300) 1st
PENINSULA Ascents (Jan)
(Orville Coast - Latady Mountains) McLoughlin Peak (1700) + 2 other peaks 1st Ascents (Feb)
Dan Hikuroa (nr) Phil Wickens (Britain)
Phil Wickens. E-mail: phil_wickens@hotmail.com
AAJ 74, HMS 219
(Note: see 1999 list for same mountaineers in Nov Dec 1999)
Mount Scott N Summit (830) Probable 1st Ascent - W Ridge (35 pitches, 5.7) (Jan)
Chris Jewell, Lucas Trihey (Australia)
HMS 219, AAJ 74
(Wiencke Island) Janssen Peak (1085) Probably New Route - E Face (12_ pitches, 45o-50o snow) (17 Jan)
Lizzie Craddock, Richard Craddock, Mike Roberts, Anton Woparis (New Zealand)
HMS 219, AAJ 74
(Wiencke Island) “Mount Piasser” NE of Savoia Pk (c 750) Probable 1st Ascent (Feb)
Eric Christenet, François Germain, Michel Hillebrandt, Paul Kobler, Laure Schmied (Switzerland)
HMS 219, AAJ 75
(Wiencke Island) Mont Italia (1097) New Route - N Ridge (Feb)
Crag Jones (Britain)
Crag Jones, 27 Sutton Drive, Upton, Chester, CH2 2HN. E-mail: j.c.jones@ic.ac.uk. HMS 219, AAJ 74
(Heard Island) Mawson Peak (2745) New Route - W Side (10 Jan)
Robb Clifton, Tim Curtis, Stuart Davidson, Matthew Rogerson (Australia)
HMS 219, AAJ 74
(Graham Land) Nueva Euskadi Peak (1318) 1st Ascent (19 Dec)
Araba Gasteiz (1561) 1st Ascent - S Ridge (“Ruta Zodiac Sur”) (24 Dec)
Josu Feijoo, Oscal Palacios, Josean Estibariz (Spain)
Josu Feijoo, Chile, 33-1o-B, 01009 Vitoria , Gasteiz, Basque Country, Spain. SGIM, AAJ 75
(Q Maud Land – Fernisfjella) Mundlauga (nr) New Route W Face (snow & ice 55°) (1 Jan)
(Q Maud Land- Holtedahlfjella) Elvia Peak (2200) 1st Ascent - NW Face (55o ice)(10 Jan)
Steinskaregga South Summit (1960) 1st Ascent - S Side (11 Jan)
Kubbestolen (2080) 1st Ascent - W Face (650m, 60oice) (12 Jan)
Carasole Peak (nr) 1st Ascent - E Ridge (13 Jan)
Soglio Peak (2325) 1st Ascent - NW Face N Ridge (50 ice) (15 Jan)
Ceshmír Lukes, Irene Oeningher (Switzerland)
AAJ 75
AFRICA
MALI (Hombori Mountains) Dyoundé Massif (Naï Occidental) New Route (“Vides Paralleles/Dreta”, 340m, 6a) (31 Jan)
Salvador Campillo (Spain), Bernard Marnette (Belgium)
SGIM
(Hombori Mountains) Dyoundé Massif (Naï Occidental) New Route (“Vides Paralleles/Esquerra”, 330m, 6a) (31 Jan)
Eduardo Sanchez, Monica Torrelles (Spain)
SGIM
(Hombori Mountains) Kaga Tongo New Route (“Vuelva Vd Mañana”, 200m, 6b, Ae, V+) (nr)
Jon Lazkano, Alberto Iñurrategi (Spain)
SGIM
Matakoyaré New Route - NW Face (“Buen Rollete Dogoncete”, 300m, 6a) (26 Jan)
Toni Galva, Joan Solé, Jenny Lafarga (Spain)
SGIM
KENYA (Ndoto Mountains) Poi (2030) 1st Ascent - N Face (“Dark Safari”, 600 m, 17 pitches, E5/E6 6a) (9 Feb)
John Barry, Pat Littlejohn, Jan Rowe (Britain), Stephen Susted (USA)
Pat Littlejohn, Hafod, Tan y Craig, Nant Gwynant, Caernarfon, Gwynedd, L55 4NW, UK. E-mail: patl@dial.pipex.com. HMS 218 (Pat Littlejohn). AJ 106 (article)
MADAGASCAR (Andringitra National Park) Tsaranoro Kely (c 1750) New Route - E Face W Part (“Cucumber’s Flying Circus”, 600m, 7b+) (8 Sep)
Boguslaw Fif, Waldemar Niemec, Tomasz Samitowski, Krzysztof Zielinksi (Poland)
PZA High Mountain Documentation Centre, glazekg@poczta.fm. HMS 222, AAJ 75 (photo)
(Andringitra National Park) Tsaranoro Lemur Wall (nr) New Route (“Black Magic Woman”, 250m, 6c+) (22 Sep)
Ivan Daskocil, Vladimir Linek, Alexander Buzinkay, Rado Starvet (Slovakia)
HMS 222, AAJ 75
(Andringitra National Park) Tsaranaro Kely (c 1750) New Route - E Face W Part (“Everything is in your Mind”, 650m, 7a) (11 Oct)
Alexander Buzinkay, Ivan Daskocil, Vladimir Linek, Rado Starvet, Ivan Stefansky (Slovakia)
HMS 222, AAJ 75
(Andringitra National Park) Le Dondy (2159) New Route - W Face Central Part (“Tato, tato”, 900m, 6a) (28 Aug)
Valdemar Niemiec, Michal Zielinski (Poland)
PZA High Mountain Documentation Centre, glazekg@poczta.fm. HMS 222, AAJ 75
MOZAMBIQUE (Nampula Domes) Mlema 1 (nr) New Route (“The Whites must be Crazy”, 675m, 20) (Jul)
Mlema 3 (nr) New Route - E Face (“African Light”, 700m, 5.10c, A1) (13 Jul)
Rebawe Mountain (nr) New Route Dos Amigos Face (“Delayed Gratification”, 650m, 5.10c, A1) (Jul)
Alard Hüfner, Mark Steuring (South Africa)
AAJ 75 (photos), HMS 222 |
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发表于 2004-2-5 21:47
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