rec.climbing上读到的一则事故

裂缝

保护者在线路顶端把leader往下放，保护方式为“安全带式”（绳子不过anchor）,坐姿面朝下，制动端绳子垂向下，你可想像成定滑轮的装置。当leader开始下降时，保护者无法控制速度，leader掉了12，13米，腿和小指骨折，肋骨瘀伤。

文中没说用的什么保护器，估计是atc一类的管状或片状保护器。事故原因主要是保护者操作不当。按他们的架设方式，制动手要向腰后别住才行。或者用意大利半扣。

听说有人保护跟攀时把atc挂在anchor上用，这则事故说明，这种方式跟没有保护区别不大。

Wrom: CONEUQZAAFXISHJEXXIMQZUIVOTQ
Subject: Accident report 5/26 Southern NH

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Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Date: 1997/06/19

On May 26th, I was climbing with my partner near Lake Massibesic in Southern
NH.  After moving the top rope, my partner lowered me down to the bottom of
the cliff using a belay device.  She was unable to control my speed and I
hit the deck 40 feet below hard.

I broke my leg, my pinkie finger and bruised a couple of ribs.  I consider
myself extremely lucky that I wasn't hurt worse.

The setup:  My partner was tied in to the top rope anchors, and was sitting
at the top of the cliff facing down.  I was tied into the rope, which went
directly to her belay device which was setup correctly.

Now for the mistake!  The brake rope ran from the belay device stright down
the cliff to a pile of slack at the bottom of the cliff.

Once I started moving down the cliff, my partner had to life 40 feet of rope
faster than it was already traveling due to my descent in order to apply the
brake.

My question for all you net climbers: Not piling the rope at the top of the
cliff was clearly a mistake.  Is it a big enough mistake that I would
inevitably crater, or was panic on my partner's part likely a contributing
factor?

What I learned from this accident:
1) Do NOT improvise if you don't have to (this was the first time we had tried
   this setup).
2) Use backups, even if you don't think you need them (a prussic knot on the
   brake rope to my harness would have saved me).
3) Use a helmet, even if you're not leading or worried about rock fall.  I
   didn't use a helmet since I was "just top roping" - I was incredibly lucky
   that I didn't hit my head and make myself stupid.

John Tupper
aka maddog

mh

对这是人们常忽略的。把ATC挂在锚点上保护跟攀人或往下放人时，如果atc比制动手
高就根本没有制动能力，如果比手低可以往下放但保护跟攀时就成了自虐运动，总之
ATC应该放在安全带上使用，制动手放在腰的高度，这适合任意情形。把atc挂在锚点
上弄不好就出问题。

8字也一样。

小河

在昆明跟攀我也被这么保护过一次，ATC在Anchor上，还有三米到顶时发现了，好在线路不算难！
后来跟昆明的朋友讨论，他说这种方式可以用来保护跟攀，他们总这么用，也有过坠落，能制动住。当时觉得是很夸张的事情，可事实却无可辩驳！
怎么说我也不会这么做！

jane

只有Reverso 和 Gigi (不是Grigri)可以较安全地挂在anchor上保护。Gigi不如Reverso便利，是老一代产品。Munter Hitch也行，但用双绳就不好弄了。