2015 Torre群峰连穿

Griff

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Yesterday I hiked out of the mountains very tired and content. On Jan 18 Marc-André Leclerc and I approached to the Col de Esperanza, and over the following three and half days we traversed the Torres from south to north, starting with the Ragni Route on Cerro Torre, and finishing with El Caracol on Cerro Standhardt. I had attempted this traverse in 2012 with Jon Walsh, but we were thwarted by storm. This time there were moments when I thought we wouldn't pull it off, but we persevered, and more importantly the good weather lasted long enough, with the wind gusts finally getting strong only during our last three rappels to the glacier.

This photo is looking down the last pitch of El Caracol, which is probably the most difficult pitch of the traverse, digging through vertical rime to
aid off the knifeblade crack underneath (Although no pitches on the traverse are extremely difficult - it's more of an endurance and logistics challenge). For three days I had been rushing as much as possible, but at this point I finally relaxed and took my time, because with only 40 meters left to Standhardt's summit I knew it would take a raging tempest to convince us to turn around. @mdre92, twenty-two years old, is a very talented climber. His only previous climb in Patagonia was El Mocho, and on day one his unfamiliarity with the terrain on Cerro Torre was evident, but he adapted amazingly quickly, made an awesome climbing partner for our first ever climb together, and by day three he was a veteran of
climbing on the Torres.

We are naming our climb the Traversia del Oso Buddha. "Oso" for Bjørn-Eivind Årtun ("Bjørn" means bear in Norwegian, "Oso" means bear in Spanish), and Buddha for Chad Kellogg. This traverse was first envisioned by Bjørn-Eivind, and we made plans to attempt it
together in 2011. The first attempt was made by Bjørn-Eivind and Chad in early 2012 - Bjørn-Eivind was killed by rockfall a couple weeks later in Norway, and Chad was killed by rockfall about one year later on Cerro Chaltén. They were both amazing, inspiring climbers and wonderful people, and I wish I could tell them that Bjørn's dream has come true.

Griff

如果说2008版的连穿有什么缺憾，那就是方向问题，Cerro Torre作为起始和结束，在难度方面有很大差别。
但是时隔四年，Colin Haley在2012又杀了回来，历时四个攀登季，失去两位优秀搭档（不是在他们的攀登中）后，终于迎来了成功，史诗气质不亚于Dawn Wall!
这次没有网络直播，没有视频大片，真正的探险是无法摆拍的。

w2

美国人热泪盈眶。

Griff

A few details while I’m still too lazy to write a real blog post… We hiked into Niponino on the 17th, with rain all afternoon and evening. On the 18th at 4am we took off to cross the Standhardt Col, slogged up the Filo Rosso, and settled into our tent in the afternoon, just below the Col de Esperanza. On the 19th we started up Cerro Torre’s Ragni Route quite early, and reached the summit at 11:50am. We rappelled the top 3 pitches of the Ragni Route, and then set up our tent for a nap, waiting for shade on Cerro Torre’s north face. Around 6pm we started rappelling down the north face, and the descent went very smoothly. Around 10pm we settled into our tent, on a snow ledge one pitch above the Col de la Mentira. On the 20th we rappelled into the col and started up Venas Azules around 8:15am. After the first 4 pitches of Venas Azules we should have immediately traversed rightwards to join the American route, but foolishly continued up Venas Azules for 1.5 more pitches before realizing there was too much rime ice for it to be a viable route. We made a rappel and started traversing right, anxious that we had wasted so much time and energy. We climbed a couple pitches on the American route, and then traversed further right, eventually joining the last pitches of the east pillar. We reached the summit of Torre Egger at last light, and set up a comfortable bivy just a couple meters below the summit. On the 21st we made a smooth descent of Torre Egger’s north face, and a quick climb of Punta Herron, which is quite short and easy from the south side. The descent down Spigolo dei Bimbi was a bit more prolonged, with some frustrating wind and one stuck rope, but we arrived at the Col dei Sogni at 1pm, and soon were starting up the south face of Standhardt. From the Col dei Sogni Marc led us up and to the right, climbing three new pitches to join El Caracol, and from there six pitches led to Standhardt’s summit, which we reached at 11:10pm.

Here is @mdre92 on the second pitch of Standhardt's south face, in a classic Patagonia situation: climbing overhanging 5.10 with boots and crampons clipped to the harness, with amazing scenery behind. ‪#‎vidapatagonia‬ @lasportivana

littlepo

回复 2# Griff


    同意，真正的探險實在難擺拍。雖然很為Dawn Wall的成功開心，但是個人對於ground up continuous push居然還有大量補給隊這件事還是頗有微詞。我以為要self contained 才是王道啊。:p

Griff

最勤恳有料的攀登家 http://www.colinhaley.com/chalten-2014-2015/ 没有之一