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发表于 2016-3-18 07:47
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Ines Papert和她的攀登伙伴Mayan Smith-Gobat以及摄影师Thomas Senf在大岩壁上呆了整整15天后，终于登顶了Riders on the Storm（5.13a A2 38段绳距）这条线路。该线位于智利境内巴塔哥尼亚高原上的百内国家公园，他们登顶的那天正好是这条线路FA（首次登顶）的25周年纪念日，是目前已知的第五次登顶。
“我感觉我必须要把自己所拥有的全部攀爬经验都结合应用起来才能完成这条线路，它需要我的抱石经验、大岩壁攀登经验，甚至需要我那少得可怜的阿式攀登经验。”Smith-Gobat说道。
信息来源
http://www.rockandice.com/climbi ... the-storm-patagonia
Route: Riders on the storm
路线：风暴骑士。
Location: Torre Central, east face, 2800m
地点：Torre Central峰，东侧，海拔：2800米。
Torres del Paine national park, Patagonia, chile
智利，巴塔哥尼亚，百内国家公园。
38 pitches - with the new free variant, 1300m route length.
路线长度：1300米，绳距：38个(带部分新线路)。
Grade 7c+, 2 pitches which haven't been free climbed yet
难度等级7C+，2段绳距未使用交替领攀。
Ines and Mayan free climbed all but 4 pitches of the entire route.
除了4个绳距的路段，Ines和Mayan交替结组完成所有其它路段。
Ines Papert, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Thomas Senf there from 16 Jan - 20 February
队员：Ines Papert，Mayan Smith-Gobat以及Thomas Senf；时间：1月16号-2月20号。
Climbing days: 15
攀登周期：15天。
Summited at 12:48 on the February 6th 2016
于2016年2月6日中午12：48分登顶。
Fifth known ascent of Riders On The Storm
风暴骑士第五次有记录的成功登顶。
Ines Papert和Mayan Smith-Gobat的巴塔哥尼亚探险之旅
撰文：Ines Papert
摄影：Thomas Senf & Franz Wlater
On February 6, 2016, Mayan, our friend and photographer Thomas Senf and I summited Torres Central, in Torres del Paine National Park (Chile) via its extremely difficult east face. We succeeded in achieving the fifth known ascent of Riders in the Storm, 25 years after the first ascent of this historic route. Known for its unstable weather conditions, this region proved itself a very challenging place to climb.
2016年1月6日，Mayan以及我们的高山摄影师好友Thomas Senf和我在经历了极度的艰辛后，终于成功地从东侧线路登顶了位于智利百内国家公园（Torres del Paine National Park）内的Torres Central峰。我们的这次攀登是风暴骑士这条线路自从有成功登顶记录以来的第五次，也完成于成功首登这条线路后的25年。这里的气候非常不稳定，整个地区的条件都给攀登带来了巨大的挑战。
Riders On the Storm was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Peter Dittrich and Norbert Bätz in January 1991 in 15 days of climbing over a five-week period. This stunning line on the sheer 1300m east face of Torres Central line went at 7c, A3. The climbing is very varied and demanding, ranging from delicate and runout face climbing to wide cracks and roofs, which were often entirely iced up. As yet, there have been no free ascents of this route, though many strong climbers have tried.
风暴骑士线路的首登是在1991年1月，由Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Peter Dittrich 以及 Norbert Bätz在为期五周的时间里，通过15天的攀登而完成的。这条线路位于垂直海拔达到1300米的Torres Central峰的东侧，站在她面前你能清晰地感受到那种几近震惊的感觉，风暴骑士的难度达到了7C，器械难度为A3。线路情况多变且具有相当的难度，在这面巨大的岩壁上，有时需要极佳的平衡，有时保护站间的距离超过了你的想象，有时需要通过裂缝以及大屋檐这样的路段，而且，在很多时候，所有的路线都被冰层覆盖，极大的增加了攀登难度。直到目前为止，尽管有很多强壮的攀登者在不断尝试，但仍然还没有人以多段结组的方式完成过这条线路。
Our goal was to free this route and due to weather, we didn't complete our mission. We did, however, make significant progress towards this goal. We succeeded in free climbing the upper two pitches, which had previously not been freed, and we found a new 5 pitch “free variant" to avoid the other section of aid.
我们的原计划是采用多段结组的方式完成风暴骑士这条线路，但由于天气的原因，我们没能实现最初的计划。但所有付出的艰辛努力也的确没有让我们和原计划相差太远。我们成功地完成了上方两段绳距的自由攀登，这也是以前还未有人做到的。我们也发现了一段由5个绳距组成的新“变线”，从而成功避免了一些需要使用辅助攀登器械的路段。
We had to be creative and use several innovative techniques and combine our individual strengths to succeed as a team.
在整个攀登过程中，我们需要将创造力，大胆与创新的攀登技术以及个人的努力与体能结合到一起，只有这样，这支队伍才能完成这样的攀登。
“Finger and hand jamming directly against ice proved to be a new and very unpleasant challenge,” remembers Mayan. “I strongly dislike climbing with no feeling in either hands or feet, yet on this route this was mostly a distant dream. It forced me to pull on all my climbing knowledge to push past pain and succeed in freeing the difficult 29th and 30th pitch with no sensation and profusely bleeding fingers.”
“在被冰层覆盖的路线上使用涨手或者甚至说是涨指的攀登技术真的不是一件那么令人愉快的挑战。”Mayan回忆到。“我实在不喜欢在攀登的时候手脚在岩壁上完全感觉不到任何的东西的那种情况，但基本上可以说这种感觉在这条线路上一直缠着我们。我不得不调动所有大脑中存储的攀登知识去应对时刻伴随我的疼痛，并成功地、麻木地、满手鲜血地自由攀登了非常困难的第29和30段绳距。”
And for me, it was overwhelming and offered many new experiences too. Never before would I have considered deciding to climb wearing my rock shoe on one side and my ice boot with crampons on the other foot! But on the 18th pitch, a 7b+ off width, there didn't seem to be any other option than to use this new technique. Additionally, using ice axes, both for climbing with and as protection.
对我而言，这次攀登给我带来了难以言喻的快乐并且也同时让我获得了全新的体验。我从没有想过有一天会决定一脚穿着攀岩鞋，一脚穿着带冰爪的攀冰靴在大岩壁上攀登！但是在第18个绳距的时候，有一段难度达到7b+的裂缝线路，在没有其它的办法下，这样新的组合技术是最好的解决方案；另外，在攀登的时候使用冰镐，不仅对攀登本身有用，也能同时作为很好的保护。
"Never before would I have thought of deciding to climb wearing my rock shoe on one side and my ice boot with crampons on the other foot. But on the 18th pitch, a 7b+ off width, there didn't seem to be any other option than to use this new technique. Additionally using ice axes, both for climbing with and as protection" - Ines Papert
“我从没有想过有一天会决定一脚穿着攀岩鞋，一脚穿着带冰爪的攀冰靴在大岩壁上攀登！但是在第18个绳距的时候，有一段难度达到7b+的裂缝线路，在没有其它的办法下，这样新的组合技术是最好的解决方案；另外，在攀登的时候使用冰镐，不仅对攀登本身有用，也能同时作为很好的保护。”—Ines Papert
Our trip began with incredibly stable weather and with the knowledge that in Patagonia, a good summit day is rare. We quickly decided to make the most of the stable weather conditions and focus on making it to the summit before investing time into free climbing the difficult lower pitches. This tactic worked, and on the last really good day, and after three weeks on the wall, we made it to the summit. We reached the top of Torres Central at 12.48 on the 6th February on a (rare) perfect day.
天气在我们这次行程开始的时侯还非常好，而且我们知道，在巴塔哥尼亚地区，一个好的登顶日天气几乎可以用罕见来形容。为了在最大程度上利用这样好的窗口期，于是我们迅速做出决定，不用自由攀登的方式在低海拔的那几段绳距上浪费时间，而是集中精力快速登顶。这个方案奏效了。当在大岩壁上度过了三周的事件后，在最后一个好天气的日子里，我们成功登顶了!2016年1月6日，在这个有着罕见好天气的日子里，于中午12：48分成功到达了Torres Central的顶峰。
However, our success was dampened that night when we were awoken by a huge rock falling past the portaledges. A piece of our fly was torn open when a rock fell and narrowly missed us. We were shaken but determined to finish the route. We returned to work on free climbing the lower pitches.
但我们这次的成功却在登顶日的当晚陷入了危机。巨大的落石从我们的挂帐边呼啸而过，一块落石撕裂了我们的外帐，几乎只差那么一点就将我们打个正着。我们的确十分害怕，但还是决定完成这条路线。在这种情况下，我们选择回到较低海拔的绳距段上用自由攀登的形式继续。
After our perfect summit day, the weather deteriorated, becoming truly ‘Patagonian’, which made it nearly impossible to climb. We had no other choice than to leave the two crux pitches of our variation without an ascent.
在登顶后，几乎完美的天气迅速开始恶化，变成了完全意义上的“巴塔哥尼亚式”气候，这使得我们无法再继续攀登。在没有其它任何选择的前提下，我和Mayan不得不放弃我们这次新变线路段上最难的两段绳距。
During the entire time we spent on this wall, our nerves were constantly tested by the weather, rock, and ice fall. Early in the trip, a piece of ice hit my helmet, cracking it in half. On the last day, I jumared up a fixed rope which was nearly cut through by rockfall. These incidents caused me to decide that I have had a lot of luck on the wall. Even though the prospect of coming back is very tempting, I have decided the level of risk is not worth it.
在这次整个大岩壁的攀登过程中，我们的胆量一直在接受恶劣天气，落石以及落冰的挑战。有一次，一块落冰直接砸中我的头盔，将其一分为二。在最后一天的攀登中，当我在使用上升器上升时，一块落石几乎切断了固定路绳。所有这些发生的小插曲让我强烈感到我在岩壁上是有多么的幸运。能再次回来攀登风暴骑士这条线路的机会的确很诱人，但我决定它的风险程度不值得我这么去做。
Mayan, however, is motivated to return and try this route again, and for this I wish her all the luck in the world.
不过Mayan对于能再次回来尝试攀登这条线路的态度很积极。对此，我由衷地祝愿她能再次获得成功。
翻译/土豆
资料来源
http://blog.arcteryx.com/riders-storm |
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