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发表于 2025-12-25 09:59
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https://alpinist.com/features/el ... -with-alex-honnold/
El Sendero Luminoso (V 5.12d), on El Toro’s 2,000-foot Central Pillar in El Potrero Chico, Mexico, one of the largest chunks of exposed limestone in North America. Alex Honnold Soloed the route in three hours on January 16. [Photo] Renan Ozturk/Camp 4 Collective collection
Six years ago, Alex Honnold stood in the streets of El Potrero Chico, Mexico, staring up at a striking line on El Toro’s Central Pillar called El Sendero Luminoso (V, 5.12d). In that moment, he knew he had found a route he could solo that was unlike any other in North America. A few years later, Honnold was back in El Potrero climbing and cleaning the route. It hadn’t seen much traffic since it was first climbed, siege-style, in 1994 by Jeff Jackson, Pete Peacock and Kurt Smith. “Peacock supplied us with water, fresh batteries for drilling and the occasional 12-pack of Tecate,” Jackson wrote in the 1995 American Alpine Journal. “All told, Smith and I spent 20 nights on the ledge, drilled 190 bolts, consumed 40 gallons of water and ate five dozen tortillas.” As Honnold made his first attempt on the 15-pitch route, an old rope left from a previous party hung from the pillar’s upper flanks, and the holds were covered in dirt. Too much work needed to be done, so Honnold left knowing he’d return more prepared.
This year, Honnold wanted a committed partner to go to El Potrero with him and completely clean the route. Cedar Wright volunteered, and they made the trip south. On January 16, after a week of cleaning and getting comfortable on the line, Honnold soloed El Sendero Luminoso, climbing the route, more than 1,500 feet tall, in only three hours time.
位于墨西哥埃尔波特雷罗奇科的埃尔托罗中央岩柱上，有一条名为“光明之路”（El Sendero Luminoso，V 5.12d）的路线，这条路线位于埃尔托罗岩柱高达2000英尺（约610米）的中央岩柱上，是北美最大的裸露石灰岩之一。1月16日，亚历克斯·霍诺德（Alex Honnold）仅用三个小时就完成了这条路线的单人攀登。[照片] Renan Ozturk/Camp 4 Collective 收藏
六年前，亚历克斯·霍诺德站在墨西哥埃尔波特雷罗奇科的街头，仰望着埃尔托罗中央岩柱上那条引人注目的路线——“光明之路”（El Sendero Luminoso，V 5.12d）。那一刻，他意识到自己找到了一条可以单人攀登的路线，这条路线在北美独一无二。几年后，霍诺德重返埃尔波特雷罗，攀登并清理了这条路线。自1994年杰夫·杰克逊（Jeff Jackson）、皮特·皮科克（Pete Peacock）和库尔特·史密斯（Kurt Smith）以围攻式攀登方式首次完成以来，这条路线鲜有人问津。 “皮科克给我们提供了水、钻探用的新电池，偶尔还会送来一箱12瓶装的特卡特啤酒，”杰克逊在1995年的《美国高山杂志》上写道。“总而言之，我和史密斯在岩架上待了20个晚上，打了190个膨胀螺栓，喝了40加仑水，吃了56个玉米饼。”当霍诺德第一次尝试这条15段绳距的路线时，一根之前队伍留下的旧绳子挂在岩柱的上侧，岩点上满是泥土。需要清理的地方太多了，所以霍诺德离开了，他知道自己会做好更充分的准备再回来。
今年，霍诺德想找个可靠的伙伴和他一起去埃尔波特雷罗，彻底清理这条路线。塞达·赖特自告奋勇，他们便启程南下。 1月16日，经过一周的清洁和适应，霍诺尔德独自攀登了“光明之路”（El Sendero Luminoso），这条超过1500英尺高的路线仅用了三个小时就登顶。 |
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