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本帖最后由 树叉儿 于 2016-9-4 14:10 编辑
How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
Everyone knows that to redpoint a project at your absolute limit you must either take an endless road trip or live near the crag. But what if the nearest cliff is a day’s travel (or more) away, you have a full-time job and family commitments, and yet you still have the burning desire for the ultimate send?
正如大家都知道的，如果想要红点一条攀岩线路，要么需要投入无限的时间或者干脆住到岩壁下面。但是如果最近的岩壁却也要花费一天或更多的时间才能到达，同时你又有一份全职工作还有家庭的责任要履行，而在内心又对自己终极目标的欲望之火熊熊不息时，你会怎么做呢？
If you are like me and this describes your situation, then take comfort in knowing that it’s still possible to climb your best. I’m just back from a trip to Spain having sent the hardest route of my life, Welcome to Tijuana (5.14b) at Rodellar. The whole process took eight months and the period coincided with one of the busiest work periods of my life, as well as the birth of my first child.
如果你也有我上述的自身情况，请放宽心，你还是有机会去痛快地攀岩的。我刚刚结束一趟西班牙挑战之旅，经历了我生命中最艰难的路线，如果可以的话，我欢迎大家都去尝试一下位于Rodellar 的Tijuana (5.14b)线路 。这次的整个过程持续了8个月，这段时间也恰好是我工作生涯中最忙的时段，也于此同时，我也迎来了自己生命中的第一个孩子。
y strategy was to train for the route remotely in the U.K., then take a series of short trips, two in the spring and two in the fall. This might sound like mission impossible, but I proved to myself that with dedication and meticulous planning you can achieve your climbing dreams without compromising other important areas of your life.
我的策略就是先英国那些偏远荒野中的岩壁上进行训练，每年春秋季节都会分别进行两次认真的短途攀登行程。这听起来可能是个实施不了的目标，但是我最终也向自己证明了只要尽心尽力再加上细致入微的计划 ，是一定可以实现你的攀登梦想的，并且不必让生命里其他重要的事情为此做出让步。
Route Selection and Training
路线选择和训练
Pick short projects for short trips. Long routes may have easier moves, but most climbers find them more stressful to redpoint. It is soul-destroying to fail at the 15th clip after being on lead for 45 minutes, so save the stamina-fests for long trips or local crags.
短途行程中可以选择长度较短的线路。有时较长的路线可能会更容易攀登，但对于很多岩者来说，要红点这样的线路反倒更有压力。试想一下在先锋了近45分钟后，在将绳挂入第15把快挂时发生冲坠，这样的感觉的确是“毁灭性”的。所以将体力留给更合适的旅途和线路才是最好的选择。
Not only is it easier to stay stronger mentally for short routes, but you can train for them specifically too. Using wooden holds at my local gym, I built exact replicas of the two key crux sections of my recent project. I was able to work the route effectively during my normal working week, thus buying me time on the route without actually going to Spain. This type of specific training is as much about neurological programming as training the muscles in the required pattern.
较短的线路不仅能让你在精神上更加坚定自信，同时也提供了进行专门训练的机会。我在家附近的健身房里用木质岩点完美地模仿了自己最近在野外线路中遇到的两处难点并加以训练。在平时正常工作的间隙里我可以有效的利用这些模拟路线，这就给我更多的训练时间而不用真的再跑去西班牙。这种专门的训练更像是将通过神经编程去训练肌肉从而使其形成特定的攀登模式。
With stamina routes, you can’t train with this same degree of specificity, and you will probably take more time to adjust to a route when you return to it, especially if you don’t regularly climb on rock. An additional factor of huge bearing to busy professionals is that power takes way less time to train than endurance and requires more rest days between sessions. You can either take the “little and often” approach, by doing very short sessions (e.g. 60 to 90 minutes) on two or three consecutive days before resting, or the approach that worked for me, which was a long hard session of up to three hours (involving power first, then power-endurance) followed by one or two rest days.
在攀登更难的线路过程中，你不可能指望专通过门训练后的肌肉力量能在第一次就百分之百地有效发挥。更多的时候是当你再次回到岩壁下尝试时，可能要花更多的时间去调整，尤其是在你缺少野外攀登经验的时候。对于工作繁忙的人士来说，比起训练消耗的时间和精力，另一个需要忍受的巨大因素是，耐力训练过程的消耗更大，并且在每次训练期结束后都需要用更长的时间去恢复。你不可能在采取“少而多次”训练方法的同时，也就是连续两到三天做短时间的训练（比如每次60-90分钟）然后再休息，或者采用我的办法——接连两到三天内的长时间而高强度的训练，每次达到3小时（包括开始的力量训练和后面的耐力训练）。
Be sure to taper two weeks before the trip by shortening the sessions and spreading them out so that you recover fully (e.g. two rest days between the last few sessions, then three or four rest days before the trip). A classic error is to get over excited in the last few weeks and arrive at the crag feeling burnt out.
确保在出发前的两个礼拜内把训练量逐渐弱化，可以缩短训练周期和分散时间段以确保你能完全恢复体力（比如在最后几次的训练中，间隔休息两天。出发前休息三到四天）一个典型的错误就是在出发前的几周里过度兴奋而当到达岩壁底部时反倒已经筋疲力尽了。
DIET
控制饮食
This is a crucial area for those who have a medium or heavy build and especially for older climbers. It’s a simple fact that for trained individuals, two weeks of restrictive dieting will do more for your climbing performance than six months of training. My strategy was to go through cycles of eating normally during training phases to fuel my sessions then reduce my complex carbohydrate intake for two weeks prior to a trip to attempt the route. I cut out all rice, bread and pasta and replaced them with salad or green veggies.
对于体重中度或严重超重的人还有年纪偏大的攀登者，控制饮食是一个至关重要的因素。一个简单的事实就是：对于训练中的人而言，如果想要获得更好的攀登表现，两个礼拜约束性的饮食控制会比六个月的训练更为有效。我的方法是在训练阶段中进行循环性的正常饮食，确保补充能量然后在每次出发前的两个礼拜内减少复合碳水化合物的摄入。我杜绝吃所有的米饭、面包和意面，用沙拉和蔬菜取而代之。
This dieting period coincides neatly with the tapering phase, so you will need less energy for training because your sessions are shorter and less frequent. During the dieting period I usually lost four or five pounds, and I took off like a rocket on my final two or three sessions before the trip. There is nothing like this sensation to boost your confidence for the send. I then maintained this pared-down weight during the trip by eating very slightly more in order to fuel my redpoints, while being careful not to put any weight back on. After the trip I rested for a week, ate normally, put the weight back on deliberately, then resumed training for the next bout. This period can feel quite demoralizing because your performance drops. Rise above it and remember that the results will soon come your way again.
饮食控制期应该和训练量弱化的阶段正好吻合，这样你就只需要用较少的能量来维持训练了，因为此时你的训练周期更短，间隔更长。在节食的过程中我通常会减重4到5磅，在最后出发前的两到三个训练期间我的攀登速度简直像火箭发射一样迅猛。没有任何事情能比这种感觉更加激发你的自信。接下来，在旅途中我会保持减轻下来的体重，如果是要在完成红点的情况下，我会吃的稍稍多一点从而保证自己达到最佳状态，但同时也要小心留意不要增加体重。在攀登旅行结束后我通常休息几个礼拜，正常饮食，谨慎的增重，然后再次开始为下一次计划做训练。这个过程让人很泄气，因为发现自己的攀登能力变差了。不要为此而泄气，要让自己相信一切又会回到高效而有序的状态。
It takes experimentation to get this whole procedure exactly right. If you start the diet too early, or over do it, you will lose power and feel burned out on the trip, but if you leave it too late and succumb to your favorite treats too often, you simply won’t achieve your fighting weight. Note that this approach won’t work for those who naturally have a light frame. If skinny people attempt to lose weight, it will almost certainly be detrimental to performance. Additionally, juniors should never restrict their calorific intake, even for short periods, as this can be extremely dangerous. Younger climbers can make such worthwhile training gains in short periods that they are better off eating to fuel the machine. However, the older you get, the harder it is to make gains in absolute terms, so strategic weight loss provides a way of cheating yourself into the body of a better climber.
如果要想将上述的饮食方案做到完全正确并也适用于自己，需要进行较长的“试验”。如果太早地开始控制饮食或者过度地控制饮食只会给我们带来相反的结果。但如果开始的太晚或者实在禁不住自己喜爱的美食的诱惑而“破戒”也只会让自己无法取得攀登或者红点所需要的体能。这里有一点必须要说明的是，这样的饮食方法不适用于那些天生体型就较瘦的人。如果体重本已较轻的人在继续控制饮食，对体能和攀登能力来说无疑是“灾难”。另外，少年阶段绝不应如此控制热量的摄取，即便是短时间也不行，因为这样的做法对于身体发育太过危险。年轻的攀登者可以通过在短时间内进行更有效的训练去提高攀登能力，而不是以牺牲身体获取能力为代价。不过，随着年纪的增加，身体获取绝对能量的能力也会随之减退，有时候自然的体重减轻会然你觉得自己从体型上来说，是一个很好的攀登者。
SYCHOLOGY
心理层面
If you are going to implode at the crag when things don’t go your way on the second or third day, then there’s no point reading on. Remember, Chris Sharma can stay relaxed and positive on his 50th day on a route. Surely you can manage it for less than half that time!
如果你只是在第二或第三天就放弃了一条还暂时无法完成的线路，那么这篇文章对你的作用和意义并不大。但正如大家都知道的，Chris Sharma在嗑线到第五十天的时候，依然保持着轻松和积极的心理状态。如果他能做到，我相信大家也都能做到，不说五十天，但起码做到一半的时间是没问题的！
The key is not to even question or notice the number of attempts or days. Maybe your project will take you five days or maybe it will be 50. Who cares? You must be prepared to go home empty handed as many times as it takes. You must accept that you will spend 99 percent of your time “failing” on this route. Look forward to it, because you won’t be failing, you’ll be learning.
不要不断给自己例如我攀了多少次了，这是第几天了这样的心理暗示。这样的想法只会加重心理负担。也许一条线路会花上你五天的时间也或许五十天的时间。仔细想想，这是问题吗？在开始一条线路前，在心理上就要做好也许会空手而归的准备。我们需要在心理上接受也许99%的情况是会失败的结局。但是失败的过程不也同时正是学习的过程吗？
Remember, Chris Sharma can stay relaxed and positive on his 50th day on a route. Surely you can manage it for less than half that amount of time. Enjoy the fleeting moments you get on this incredible route out in the natural world with a good companion. You could always drop the bar and tick routes two grades lower, but that would be old news and it’s time to see what you’re really capable of. It’s ironic that in order to succeed you can’t be goal oriented.
还是那句话，Chris Sharma在嗑线到第五十天的时候，依然保持着轻松和积极的心理状态。如果他能做到，我相信大家也都能做到，不说五十天，但起码做到一半的时间是没问题的！学会去享受和搭档在岩壁上的每一个瞬间，去享受与大自然相处的每一刻。我们可以选择去降低线路的难度等级，也可以去努力试探自己能力的真实所在，不管什么样的选择，保持良好的心态才是关键所在。给自己设定一个可以达到的标杆，然后照此目标努力。
You are not trying to do this route, but practice a climbing ritual that is more akin to yoga or a form of meditation. On each attempt you try hard, not by being more aggressive, but by executing with more grace. Take satisfaction from progress, no matter how incremental.
任何在岩壁上急躁的心态和行为都只会适得其反。试着将一条线路的攀登当作是一次瑜伽或者冥想的过程。在每一次尝试的时候，放下激进的心态，保持自己能做到的优雅和流动。不管在岩壁上尝试多少次，接受并享受这段过程。
However, it’s a rare individual who can stifle those pre-redpoint butterflies when the send really is on. If, as is often the case, you find that you can’t detach from the end goal, try to balance every dark thought with a positive solution. For example, there is a reason to fail on every redpoint, but there is also a reason to succeed. For the first redpoint attempt you may not be properly warmed up and coordinated, but you will also be at your freshest and under the least pressure. The second redpoint attempt carries a lot of pressure, but for a good reason as you ought to be at your best. For the third or fourth attempts, you will be most fatigued, but this will force you to climb efficiently, with no expectations.
但是，我们当中也不乏存在能顺利红点的人。如果，你觉得能红点一条线路也是自己的目标，那么在不断尝试的过程中就需要在遇到困难时放弃心里那些负面的想法，寻找积极的解决方案，而不是轻易地放弃要完成的线路。例如，每一次红点都有失败的原因，当然，也都有成功的原因。当你第一次尝试红点一条线路时，可能身体没有完全预热或者协调好，但另一方面，第一次攀登的时候，身体是在最好的状态，心理压力也较小；当你第二次尝试红点的时候，压力就会相对要大得多。但是你对线路的掌握却要比第一次更熟悉；等到第三次尝试红点的时候，你可能以及力竭，不再抱有任何的期望，但是有时却正是这样的状态才能让我们做到更有效的攀登。
Remember also not to attach any significance if you’ve worked yourself into a particular mind state, be it nervous, angry or despondent. Hard routes have been climbed in every conceivable mind set, so abandon that flawed line of questioning and just climb. And before you go, don’t forget to notice the bird song and the wind rustling in the trees, then take a few deep breaths and smile to yourself.
请记住，在攀登一条线路时，不管自己心里是紧张、气愤还是沮丧，都不要让这样的情绪继续蔓延到不可收拾的地步。在攀登较难的线路时，可以在岩壁下事先观察可能利用的手点和脚点，发挥自己的想象力，在岩壁上保持轻松，积极和流动的状态，除掉内心对自己的质疑，我们要做到的只是自信地迈出第一步，并同时闭上眼睛感受大自然中鸟儿的歌声和风声，然后深呼吸，给自己也给岩壁一个微笑。
撰文/Neil Gresham
翻译/土豆
原文链接 http://www.rockandice.com/rock-c ... climb-at-your-limit
本文仅限内部交流，未校对，翻译不准确之处，欢迎指出
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